Which floor is best for the poultry house. Floor in the chicken coop: which is better? Construction materials
Heated chicken coop in winter- a tricky business. In sub-zero temperatures, the egg production of a bird is critically reduced, and the birds themselves get sick more often. How to avoid such troubles?
Chicken coop heating options
Previously, chickens were thrown into the attic in winter, settled in a warm barn, in the underground, or even in the house. Today, such measures are considered obsolete, the issues of winter maintenance and heating of the chicken coop can be solved and modern ways. Namely, to automate the bird care system. It should be noted that well-known radiators, convectors, heat guns and potbelly stoves are quite dangerous ways of heating, because the chicken coop is full of dust, droppings and fluff. infrared lamps explode quite often. It is not advisable to install a heating boiler or a brick oven, a boiler room, a boiler room in such a room. How and with what else can you heat a chicken coop in winter?Underfloor heating, namely infrared film, surely becomes a good help in farms. Its cost has become very affordable, and the assortment generosity allows you to choose the most suitable option for a variety of purposes. And the installation of the film in cages for hens, flocks and any premises where immature young and adult birds are kept is quite quick and easy. Because infrared heating and poultry farmers fell in love.
Floors on the ceiling
Infrared floor heating in a chicken coop is not quite a floor. The film is mounted on a wall or ceiling, therefore, it is possible to prevent contact of the heating system with the bird. It does not warm the air, but the walls, the floor, the perches and the chickens themselves. And objects are already giving off heat into the air by convection. Therefore, the heating of the room occurs evenly, without dust whirlwinds and oxygen combustion. The warm floor in the chicken coop is fireproof, it does not make noise, its operation does not require constant monitoring. And yet, infrared heating allows you to reduce the humidity of the air, thereby relieving the chicken coop from fungus and mold. Thus, winter heating chicken coop with IR film allows you to achieve the microclimate necessary for the healthy life of birds.
How to calculate and mount
First you need to calculate the footage of the film. It is better to install it on the wall: mount the film so that the heat is directed to the nests and perches.We present the calculation of the film for an unheated wooden room.
Initial data 1:
The size of the chicken coop is 10 sq.m., 3 external load-bearing walls (100x100 timber insulated with mineral wool), wall height 2000 mm, window 500x500 mm, wooden frames, double, insulated door 600x1200 mm, earthen floor (from below waterproofed with roofing material). Region: Krasnoyarsk (winter temperatures -20 ... -35). The required indoor temperature in winter is -5 ... +5.
Calculation of a warm floor in a chicken coop for Krasnoyarsk
Based on the fact that the minimum temperatures in the Krasnoyarsk Territory can reach -42°C, the total heat loss of this room will be about 0.65 kW. We summarize the heat losses of the front door - 250 W and the windows - 100 W with the heat losses of the room, obtaining a total heat loss of 1000 W. To maintain the required temperature and compensate for heat losses, we calculate the heating power per cubic meter of the room:
The total volume of the room (hen house) is 10 sq.m x 2 m = 20 cubic meters.
Required power per cubic meter 650 W / 20 cubic meters = 32.5 W / cubic meters. Summing up the additional heat losses, we get 650 W + 250 W + 100 W = 1000 W - the total power of the required heating system.
A standard infrared film has a power of 0.22 kW/sq.m, hence for space heating 1000 W / 220 W / sq.m. will be required. = 4.55 sq. m of film.
Initial data 2:
Chicken coop size - 10 sq.m, 3 external load-bearing walls (100x50 timber insulated with mineral wool), wall height 2000 mm, window 500x500 mm, wooden frames, single, door 600x1200 mm, earthen floor (from below waterproofed with roofing material). Region: Moscow region (winter temperatures -8 ... -15). The required indoor temperature in winter is 0 ... +5.
Calculation of a warm floor in a chicken coop for Moscow
Based on the fact that the minimum temperatures in Moscow and the Moscow region can reach -30°C, and the room is not sufficiently insulated, its total heat loss will be about 0.55 kW. We summarize the heat losses of the front door - 175 W and the windows - 75 W with the heat losses of the room, obtaining a total heat loss of 800 W. To maintain the required temperature and compensate for heat losses, we calculate the heating power per cubic meter of the room:The total volume of the room (hen house) is 10 sq. m x 2m = 20 cubic meters
Required power per cubic meter 550 W / 20 cubic meters = 27.5 W / cubic meters. Summing up additional heat losses, we get 550 W + 175 W + 75 W = 800 W - the total power of the required heating.
A standard infrared film has a power of 0.22 kW/sq.m, hence for space heating 800 W / 220 W / sq.m. will be required. = 3.64 sq. m. film.
Mounting
The distance from the heating surface to the perches should be about a meter. In addition to the film itself, you will need double-sided tape, a mounting kit, a thermostat, a reflective backing, and a couple of sheets of plywood. One sheet of plywood is needed in order to install a heating system in the chicken coop (the film is laid only on a flat surface), and the other is to prevent the bird from pecking at the infrared film. A reflective substrate is required so that heat does not escape through the walls to the street. A thermostat - to regulate the operation of the film and save energy. Thermal sensors record the temperature in the chicken coop, as well as the temperature of the heated film, and, depending on the set program, the heated floor in the chicken coop turns on and off independently. Thus, smart electronics itself monitors the temperature in the room. Chickens for joy.The design itself looks like this:
We fix a sheet of plywood on the wall with self-tapping screws, to which we then attach a reflective substrate with double-sided tape. We fix the structure with planks. Then we prepare the infrared film for installation. To do this, we fix the clamps for the supply of electricity on the current-carrying busbars of the film, crimp the clamps with the supply wires of the power cable and isolate them at the place of fastening with a bitumen gasket. Then, with the same bituminous gasket, we attach thermal sensors to the surface of the film, and isolate them. Thermal sensors should not be superimposed on the radiating element, it is attached between the emitter strips on the film surface. At the next stage, we attach the infrared film ready for use to the wall of the chicken coop. First, we cut out a window in the reflective film - in the place where the fragment of the film with the temperature sensor will be located. We attach the film to the substrate with double-sided tape, with the tire up. We fix the wires on the substrate with ordinary adhesive tape, sheathe the entire structure with a sheet of plywood on top (to prevent the bird from pecking at the film) and fix the plywood with self-tapping screws. When installing an infrared underfloor heating in a chicken coop, care must be taken not to get into the contact busbars and radiating elements with self-tapping screws. To do this, we outline the contour of the fasteners with self-tapping screws on plywood. We place the thermostat in an area inaccessible to birds and close the appropriate signal and power cables with corrugated pipes. That's all, chicken coop ready for winter.
Which film to choose
The field of application of infrared film is expanding every year, new generations of it are being produced, suitable for the most unexpected solutions. Almost any film can be mounted on walls and ceilings. Vertically, horizontally, locally. It remains to choose a manufacturer you trust. And take into account some features: for example, if you have a very humid room, choose a film with a moisture-proof coating. Practice shows that for an ideal result it is not necessary to buy the most expensive and "promoted" infrared film. In our case, we can be content with the cheapest South Korean film (Lavita LH, RexVa Xica, Q-Term), it fully justifies itself in work.The construction of a poultry house is inevitably connected with the solution of the issue of arranging flooring. Proper flooring affects the health as well as the performance of layers. In addition, indoor air quality, ease of cleaning the chicken coop, and the presence or absence of rodents in it depend on the floor. In this article we will talk about how to lay the floor yourself and how to care for it.
Functions of the floor in the chicken coop
The main functions of the flooring in the poultry house include:
- protective(the flooring should protect birds all year round from moisture and rats, and in the winter months also from dampness and frost);
- heat-insulating(in winter, a positive temperature should be maintained in the barn, as this the only way maintaining high egg production of laying hens);
- support(supportive).
Did you know? Chickens are depicted on the coins of 16 countries and are the absolute leaders among numismatic bird species.
Primary requirements
The floor covering in the chicken dwelling must be laid taking into account certain requirements. Let's see how it should be:
- Safe. From the flooring, first of all, this applies to the wooden version, pointed parts (nails, fittings) that can injure birds should not protrude.
- Durable and durable. The base of the chicken house should support multi-level structures with nests.
- Eco-friendly. The use of polyvinyl chloride is unacceptable, since this material may become moldy. In addition, plastic releases toxic substances into the atmosphere.
- Must be water repellent. The liquid bird droppings will systematically attack the surface of the deck. Therefore, the final stage in the manufacture of the floor should be its coating with moisture-resistant impregnations.
- Must have low thermal conductivity and a layer of insulation, in order to maintain a positive temperature in the home in winter and to exclude the disease of chickens from hypothermia.
How to lay the floor with your own hands
When wondering what it is better to equip the flooring in a poultry house from, consider the features of the entire structure, the climate of the area and your financial capabilities. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the most successful floor coverings, which will help you decide which option is best for your pets.
Earthy (ground)
This type is optimal for poultry houses without a foundation, when the walls are fixed on four load-bearing beams dug into the ground at the corners.
So, for laying the soil surface you will need:
- pieces of roofing material (can be replaced with linoleum or other waterproof material of your choice);
- fine gravel;
- shovel;
- nails with a wide hat;
- a hammer.
Important! When burying the roofing material in the ground, make sure that it is bent away from the house. 10–20 cm of cardboard should be applied to the wall.
The sequence of actions for laying the earthen surface:
- Outside (along the perimeter of the barn), dig a moat with a depth of 0.3 to 0.5 meters. The ditch should be located close to the walls.
- Fix the pieces of roofing material against the walls from the outside so that the bottom of the cardboard is in the groove and the top is against the wall. Fasten pieces of roofing material with nails.
- At the next stage, the funnels with roofing material are covered with earth.
- Pack and level the soil inside the house while removing debris and weeds.
- Pour gravel on top, mixing it with the outer layer of soil.
- Once again, level the earthen surface by level and tamp. It will not work to make the surface perfectly flat, but try to achieve the maximum effect.
- Pour in the bedding.
Wooden
It is advisable to lay a wood floor at the stage of building a barn. For such a surface, a columnar or strip foundation is required. To lay wood on the foundation, the builder needs to stock up:
- a bar of wood with a section of 200x200 mm;
- a bar of wood with a section of 200x100 mm;
- a board 20 mm thick and 10–30 mm wide;
- hydrophobic solution (can be replaced with drying oil or varnish);
- insulation (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or bundles of dried straw);
- nails and hammer;
- steel mesh;
- wire;
- self-tapping screws and a screwdriver;
- steel staples.
Let's move on to review step by step instructions how to make a wooden base:
- Install a support bar along the perimeter on the foundation pillars and fasten it with staples on self-tapping screws at the corners.
- Install the steel mesh base on the supporting bar, securing it around the perimeter with bent nails.
- Install a 200 x 100 bar along the perimeter with an edge and attach with brackets to the supporting beams so that part of the beams is shown inside the house (to fix the lags).
- Inside, lay a 200 by 100 bar on the grid with an edge as lags every 0.5 meters.
- Pin the logs to the carrier bar with long nails (120 mm), hammering them at a slight angle.
- Next, treat all wooden parts with a hydrophobic liquid and leave to dry.
- Lay insulation on the mesh between the lags and press it against the mesh with wire.
- Nail the boards of the top cover tightly to the joists.
- Additionally, treat the base with a hydrophobic liquid, and after drying, treat with lime.
Video: how to make a wooden floor in a chicken coop
The wooden surface itself is warm, but if severe frosts are expected, this will not be enough. Therefore, in winter, wood is not the most reliable material.
Important! Caring for a wooden surface consists in systematically checking the corners and joints with the wall for the presence of rodents (there should be no characteristic holes in the wood). Every time you change the bedding, you need to re-lime the floor.Do not let the heat insulator come into contact with the ground, as this is fraught with the appearance of rodents.
Concrete
Materials and tools required for work:
- shovel;
- crushed stone or gravel;
- limiters made of wooden planks;
- drill;
- for the preparation of concrete - one part of cement, four parts of sand or fine gravel;
- wooden levelers.
Concrete is guaranteed to protect the structure from rodents. The concrete surface is easy to keep clean and easy to sweep. In the summer season, the coating remains cool, which is a significant advantage. However, during the winter months, birds will feel cold. A rubber mat will insulate the concrete surface from the cold. Chicks need an extra layer of bedding.
Did you know? The "oldest" chicken on Earth was 14 years old.
Ticks do not start in the concrete surface, moisture or odors are not retained. If the birds have any ailment, you can easily get rid of all the bedding, then clean the chicken coop from dust and disinfect the floor and walls.
In recent years, a method of breeding chickens on a mesh floor has been popular among farmers. Its construction begins with laying a dense, well-packed surface. The base is made of concrete with a slight slope.
As for how to lay the concrete base, it can be sawdust, wood shavings or peat. The mesh surface itself is made from boards. The structure is a kind of frame, on which a grid is fixed on top. Galvanized mesh is considered the most durable and stable.
How to insulate the floor in a chicken coop
High-quality insulation of the flooring in the poultry house allows it to last much longer. Warming is carried out using deep and shallow bedding. Even in winter, the bedding keeps the temperature in the shed at +16...+18 °C without the use of electric heaters. Most poultry farmers provide their wards with deep bedding.
It is made from raw materials of natural origin (dry sawdust, hay and straw, moss peat or dried grass). First sprinkle the flooring with hydrated lime for disinfection, and then cover with a layer of the selected material about 15 cm thick.
The litter can not be changed throughout the year, but according to the degree of pollution, it is necessary to add new layers of insulation, eventually bringing the thickness to 25 cm. In addition, the litter must be periodically loosened. If it is very damp, then sprinkle it with superphosphate - 0.5 kg per 2 sq. m.
Video: how to insulate the floor in a chicken coop
The arrangement of the chicken coop is inevitably connected with the solution of the issue of equipping its important component - the floor. Comfortable conditions for keeping poultry, the health of laying hens and their egg production largely depend on its quality. There are special requirements for the design of the floor and its coating, which do not require special skills and financial costs - you can make the floor in the chicken coop yourself.
The floor in the chicken coop plays an important role. The protection of chickens from predators and rodents, negative weather conditions, moisture depends on its design. Gender influences optimal temperature regime and sanitary conditions in the room. The quality of the conditions for keeping laying hens directly depends on its correct arrangement - warm in winter and cool in hot summer.
There are three functions of the floor for the chicken coop - supporting, heat-insulating and protective. It consists of a foundation, a frame and a floor covering on which a replaceable bedding is laid. The quality of the floor directly affects the health of the inhabitants of the poultry house and their productivity. Therefore it should be:
- Safe. On the surface of the floor, especially wood, there should not be sharp elements, such as nail heads and fittings, which will cause injury to chickens.
- Moisture resistant. The floor covering will be regularly exposed to liquid bird droppings, so it is necessary to pre-treat the floor surface with water-repellent impregnations.
- durable.
- Durable. The floor must withstand multi-tiered structures with nests. If it is made of wood, then its minimum thickness should not be less than 2 cm, and the logs are laid with a minimum step of 60 cm - this will eliminate the deflection of the beams.
- Eco-friendly. PVC-based materials as flooring are unacceptable - they can become moldy and release toxic substances into the air;
- Have low thermal conductivity and a layer of insulation to maintain a positive indoor temperature in winter and prevent birds from getting sick from hypothermia.
Particular attention at the construction stage of the chicken coop should be given to the construction of the foundation and its waterproofing to prevent the accumulation of moisture under the floor and the decay of its structure, as well as freezing when the temperature drops outside.
Important! Birds living in a chicken coop with a cold floor are characterized by reduced egg production. Laying hens living in a room with a warm floor are distinguished by strong immunity and high productivity rates.
What should be the foundation
Depending on the type of building and the material of its manufacture, the type of foundation is chosen. So, when erecting a frame building, structures made of logs or timber use a columnar foundation. To build a block chicken coop, whether brick, shell rock or blocks of any other type, use a strip foundation. It is more expensive, but also reliable for heavy walls. A slab or monolithic foundation can simultaneously act as a subfloor, but this variety is the most expensive.
Important! The construction of the foundation for the chicken coop begins with the cleaning of the fertile layer and tamping the territory.
Column Foundation
For the manufacture of foundation columns, bricks can be used, pouring concrete into the formwork, but the easiest way is to put blocks measuring 20 x 20 x 40 cm. With a side length of up to 4 m, 3 support columns will be required - in the corners and in the middle. If the length of the sides is less than 3 m, then the posts are installed only in the corners.
The device of the columnar foundation is as follows:
- At the location of each column, they dig a hole with a slightly larger size and a depth of 25 - 30 cm.
- Medium-sized crushed stone is laid out at the bottom of the hole and rammed until the layer is 15 cm thick.
- Sand is poured on the rubble and also rammed.
The resulting base can be used to install blocks. All of them should be located in a single plane, the horizontalness of which is controlled using pegs and a stretched cord or building level. A strapping in the form of a bar or logs, pre-treated with antiseptic impregnation, is laid on the exposed blocks. Between the strapping and the surface of the posts, two layers of roofing material or its modern analogue, hydroisol, are laid.
Table 1. Instructions for creating the simplest block columnar foundation
| Illustration | Description |
|---|---|
 | They mark the area, pull the cord and mark the locations of the posts. |
 | They dig a hole under the dimensions of the block with a depth designed for the device of a crushed stone pillow. |
 | They fall asleep and ram the rubble. |
 | The bottom side of the block is coated with a solution and installed on rubble. |
 | The upper surface is coated with a solution and two layers of roofing material are laid on top. |
 | Install the beam. |
 | Fix the harness. |
 | Create a frame for flooring. |
 | The boardwalk is fixed from boards pre-treated with protective compounds. |
After that, you can proceed to the construction of a wooden frame of walls and roofs with their subsequent sheathing.
Strip foundation
During the construction of block chicken coops, the material of which can be brick, adobe, shell rock, wood concrete and any building blocks, the following steps are performed for the foundation:
- The site is cleared of debris, marked out and a trench is dug around the perimeter of the future structure. Its depth should be at least 50 cm, and its width from 35 cm.
- It is important to observe the verticality of the walls of the trench, with loose soils, a slight slope is acceptable.
- Stones, roots are removed from the bottom of the trench, leveling and tamping are performed.
- The bottom is covered with medium-sized rubble and rammed so that the layer thickness is about 15 cm.
- Sand is poured onto the rubble and a compacted layer of 10 cm is created.
- Formwork is installed in the trench, the panels of which are raised above the ground by 10 - 15 cm.
- To increase the stability of the foundation during the period of seasonal soil mobility, reinforcement is laid in the formwork - ribbed rods with a diameter of 10-12 mm. They are located from each other at a distance of 15 cm, from the formwork shield and the bottom of the trench by 5 cm.
- After that, concrete of a grade of at least M400 is poured, prepared in the proportion 1 (cement M400): 3 (crushed stone of the middle fraction): 4 (dry sand). Water is poured in gradually, bringing the solution to the desired consistency.
- After filling the formwork with mortar, the upper part is leveled and covered with foil for 1 week at +20°C, for 2 weeks at temperatures from +17°C to +20°C, for 3 weeks at temperatures below +17°C.
As a waterproofing, you can use bituminous mastic or roll material - roofing material.
What is better to make a floor: the choice of material
There are several ways to build a chicken coop floor. Each of them has its pros and cons.
Dirt flooring is the most economical flooring option in a poultry house. Due to its simplicity, this floor is the most popular, but it has many disadvantages:
To strengthen such a floor, plastic clay is used - gradually absorbing moisture, this material will strengthen the base and extend its service life several times.
Important! To ensure full waterproofing in the chicken coop, the clay layer must be at least 10 cm. In addition, it is worth considering the number of birds - the more there are, the thicker the clay layer is used on the floor.
The earthen floor for the chicken coop is done as follows:
Concrete floor
The second most popular is the concrete floor. This is due to the simple process of its creation, which does not require much time. This design 100% protects the premises from the penetration of predators and rodents. It remains to solve the issue of maintaining heat, since the floor is quite cool even in hot weather. Therefore, for its insulation, special natural or synthetic bedding is used, which significantly slows down the process of cooling the floor surface. It is also necessary that an earthen base and a drainage grid be present in the chicken coop.
The main quality of a concrete floor is its resistance to alkalis and moisture. Such a floor does not burn, does not smolder, does not support or spread fire, it is practical and durable - following the technology of preparing and pouring concrete and proper operation, the concrete base will last at least 25 years. When choosing a bedding for such a base, not only its softness is taken into account, but also thermal conductivity, which should be as low as possible.
It is not difficult to arrange a concrete floor - the solution will require cement grade M400 (3 parts), sand (1 part), water and crushed stone of a fraction of 20/40 mm.
To pour a concrete base in a chicken coop, you need a layer of 5 - 7 cm, which, despite its small thickness, must be reinforced with a metal mesh. It can be purchased ready-made or made from rebar with relief and knitting wire.
On a sand and gravel cushion 15 cm thick, where 5 cm is sand and 10 cm is gravel, a 5 cm thick foam is laid. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of it.
The mesh can be laid directly on the gravel, but first it must be shed with liquid concrete and left to dry for 2 to 3 days. After that, you can proceed to the layer-by-layer pouring of concrete. Each layer will need to be leveled and compacted to remove air from the solution. This technology will prevent cracking of the base during its operation.
Wooden floor
The "golden mean" is a wooden floor - this is the most optimal solution when flooring is warm and does not require additional insulation (even in severe frosts, the wood does not freeze). Wood is an inexpensive, easy-to-work material.
Important! The influence of microorganisms on the wood structure will be minimized if it is coated with a lime-based composition.
To make it easier to clean the chicken coop, the wooden base is made with a slight slope. The wood from which the base is made must be sanded, nails should not stick out above its surface, for which the chickens will cling to their paws and get hurt. Wood must be treated with water-repellent impregnations, otherwise, under the influence of litter, it will quickly begin to rot.
Video - Warm chicken coop. Floor device
DIY wooden floor: step by step instructions
Making your own wooden floor for a chicken coop is not difficult. This will require the following:
Such a floor in a chicken coop can short time make even a novice poultry farmer. Further, it is necessary to carry out periodic replacement of the bedding (every three months), since it is made from organic raw materials. At a cost, a wooden floor will come out more expensive than concrete or earthen, but it is this floor that is most often chosen by feathered breeders because of the environmental friendliness and comfortable stay of birds in the chicken coop, even in severe frosts. Which in turn positively affects their health, immunity and egg production.
The role of bedding for floor insulation
No matter what type of floor is chosen for the chicken coop, a litter is laid on top of it, forming an additional layer of a certain material. More often, its device is justified in the winter, since the floor retains heat, and special fermented biological bedding completely allows you to solve the problem of heating the chicken coop - a considerable amount of heat is released into the environment from a thick layer of bedding material mixed with manure.
Important! The main role of the litter in the winter is a preventive effect that prevents various diseases of poultry, including infectious ones.
In addition, a soft layer of litter reduces the risk of injury to the bird when jumping from a perch, so this layer, slightly thinner, can also be used in the summer.
Varieties of litter by depth
People have been bred for a long time poultry, and during this time, many options for the device bedding from various materials, a modern science helped improve some of them, improving the quality of the coating. Of the main requirements that apply to the material for bedding, the following are noted:
- flowability;
- looseness;
- the ability to absorb and retain moisture and odor.
According to the depth of the litter, they are divided into thin and deep (non-replaceable). A thin bedding on the floor of the chicken coop is represented by a small layer of loose material, which is used in the summer. Its purpose is to make the floor surface softer and not injure the chicken legs. In addition, the cleaning of the litter is simplified, which is raked together with the material when it is replaced at least 1-2 times a week as it gets dirty.
Deep or non-replaceable litter is made in the form of a thick, deep layer (30 - 50 cm). Such a coating reliably retains heat in the chicken coop and is used in the winter. Natural heating occurs due to the fact that periodically, as the top layer gets dirty, it is mixed with manure. The resulting composition begins to rot and release heat as a result of natural biochemical processes. Over time, the layer is trampled down and rammed, so it may need to be backfilled to its original level.
Deep bedding in the chicken coop can be arranged already in early autumn, when the weather is still warm and dry. Remove such litter in the last days of spring, when there are no cold weather and night frosts.
Important! Waste bedding material can be safely used as a nitrogenous fertilizer for the garden.
According to the materials used
There are many materials that can be used for bedding. Consider the most popular.
According to many poultry farmers, sawdust is the most suitable and versatile material for creating the underlayment. They absorb moisture, retain odor, melt and release heat, without the need for enzymatic additives. Chickens like to dig into sawdust, loosening it along the way and mixing it with droppings. To make the birds more willing to do this, grain waste is added to the sawdust.
Among the shortcomings of this material, the high cost is noted, with the exception of situations where a sawmill is located nearby. Another disadvantage is that a hungry bird can swallow sawdust, thereby harming its health, in particular the digestive system. Therefore, it is important that the hens are well fed before they are released into the coop with the new bedding on the floor.
Important! To get a suitable substrate for the chicken coop, sawdust can be mixed with other material.
hay and straw
One common way to create floor litter in a chicken coop is to use dry leafy and stem parts of field grasses. Hay and straw do not absorb moisture as well as sawdust, but this material is much cheaper and can be harvested for future use. In order for dry grass to perform its bedding functions in the best possible way, it must be finely chopped. Large (not crushed) grass can be laid on top of the sawdust to protect them from being eaten by chickens and chickens.
Dry leaves
Dry leaves of trees can be used as an affordable material for creating bedding, for which you do not have to pay. It is in autumn, in September, that the chicken coop is prepared for winter, when there are especially many dry leaves. A good time to collect them will be a warm, fine, dry day. Before pouring the leaves into the chicken coop, they are thoroughly dried and crushed.
Bedding made from dry, crushed moss (sphagnum) is an excellent choice, as this natural material has high moisture-absorbing properties and the ability to absorb and retain the most pungent odors. You can find sphagnum in large quantities in swampy areas, but for the sake of economy, it is recommended to use it not in its pure form, but together with sawdust.
Important! A sense of proportion when collecting moss in its natural habitat will protect the swamp ecosystem and not undermine its functioning.
The swampy area is rich not only in moss, but also in peat, which is also an excellent natural material for organizing bedding. Peat is used with great pleasure as a supplement to sawdust in areas adjacent to extensive peat bogs.
Important! The distinctive quality of peat from other materials is its antiseptic properties. Therefore, this material, mixed with other additives, will protect birds from infectious diseases in winter.
However, it is fair to note some of the difficulties associated with peat harvesting. The process of extracting the material is quite complicated and time-consuming. The peat layer lies in the swamp under a layer of turf, which must first be removed with a shovel, and then laid in place after extracting the required amount of peat.
In addition, peat must be dried in a special way - it cannot be dried or dried out, as it will lose its functionality and will not absorb moisture properly.
Among the shortcomings of the material, one can note a low level of prevalence in natural natural conditions and the high cost of the material obtained by industrial means.
Needles
In regions where coniferous plants grow, bedding based on fallen needles is very popular. To harvest raw materials, it is enough to go to the coniferous forest for spruce branches or pine branches, and wait at home for the needles to dry and fall off. Where larch grows, the situation with the procurement of material is even simpler, since these trees themselves shed their needles in the fall - it remains only to collect it. However, before using coniferous litter, you need to know about some of the nuances.
The needles are often quite hard needles with sharp ends that can injure the bird, so you should not use this material in one piece. The needles are carefully crushed to obtain the consistency of coniferous flour.
The composition of the needles contains a large number of various volatile biologically active substances, essential oils and phytoncides. When dry, the needles release these substances for a long time, creating a high concentration in the air, which can adversely affect the health of chickens. Therefore, it is important to choose the right time for harvesting raw materials. In the period from November to April, the content of volatile substances in the composition of the needles is minimal. It is advisable to use pine needles as an additive to the main bedding material, as it aromatizes the room and has pronounced antimicrobial properties.
bacterial
Fermentation, bio- or bacterial mats are all names for the same type of material related to the developments of modern biotechnology.
The peculiarity of this material lies in the fact that it is a specific bacteria that release a huge amount of heat after the fermentation process of the main absorbent material and bird droppings. Inside the litter layer can warm up to 50 degrees, and outside have a temperature of up to +27 degrees. In addition to the effective heating of the floor covering, the specific smell in the room is eliminated. A significant disadvantage is the very high cost of the material - an average of 2,000 rubles per 0.5 kg.
sawdust prices
wood sawdust
The installation of high-quality flooring and a solid floor structure in the chicken coop significantly affects the creation of comfortable conditions for the feathered population and their health, which is the key to obtaining the desired profit for every poultry farmer.
Regardless of which chickens you keep (meat or egg breeds), in order to achieve maximum productivity of birds, it is necessary to create good conditions for them. There are certain requirements for what should be a room for keeping domestic birds. In the article we will talk about how to make the floor in the chicken coop so that the birds are comfortable and safe.
Conditions for chickens of different breeds will be slightly different. 
However, there are basic rules for everyone:
- the poultry house must always be clean;
- the room should have windows that are easy to open for ventilation. In the absence of such, it is necessary to equip a high-quality ventilation system;
- maintaining the required temperature and humidity in the chicken coop (depending on the breed of bird). Basically, chickens easily live in unheated rooms. However, if your goal is the highest productivity, then heating is necessary. The optimum air temperature in the chicken coop is + 21-25 degrees. In winter, it should not fall below + 10-15;
- Another important condition for a poultry house is space. Overpopulation threatens with infections and even epidemics, weakening the immunity of birds. The chicken coop is populated at the rate of 2-3 layers per 1 sq. m area;
- if chickens rush year-round, then it is necessary to monitor the maintenance of daylight hours in the house. In the presence of windows in the summer, the light penetrating through them will be enough. In winter, additional light sources are needed. Light day should be 14-16 hours.
For the comfort of chickens, the house should be equipped with:
- installed at different heights with a distance of 40-50 cm from each other;
- - 1 adult should have at least 10-15 cm;
- volume 5-6 l;
- nests - 1 piece for 5 individuals;
- ash baths for dry bathing of birds.
The floor should be covered with straw, hay, sawdust or other materials. In winter, it should be somewhat thicker than in summer. If the house is unheated, then its layer should reach at least 30-40 cm. The bedding should be changed twice a month (in case of high humidity, this can be done more often). Chickens need to walk, so it is important to build an aviary for them with shading and a canopy from the weather. Feeders and drinkers are also needed in the walking area. Did you know? Chickens can only lay in the light. Even if the time for the egg to come out has already come, the bird will wait for the day to come or for the lights to turn on.
How does cold and warm floor affect the health of the bird
The indoor floor helps maintain desired temperature house, regardless of the weather outside. Its quality and the materials from which it is made affect the health and development of birds, and also perform 3 main functions:
- support;
- heat-insulating;
- protective.
Living in a chicken coop with a cold floor primarily affects the egg production of birds. When kept indoors with a warm floor covering, birds are distinguished by a strong immune system and high productivity. They practically do not suffer from arthritis, pneumonia, colds. When choosing a floor covering, preference should be given to options that are safe, moisture resistant, durable, with low thermal conductivity, and environmentally friendly. Do-it-yourself chicken coop floor
You can equip the floor in the house in several ways and from various materials. Which option to choose depends on the size of the room, its arrangement and the financial capabilities of the owner. Let's understand the pros and cons of the most common flooring - earthen, concrete and wood.
Ground floor device
An earthen floor is the simplest option available to everyone. Simplicity and cheapness are undoubtedly its advantages. However, this option has more disadvantages. Among them:
- rapid cooling in the cold season;
- lack of protection against rodents and pests;
- difficulties in care, tk. such a floor can often form dirt.
The step-by-step instructions for performing this coverage option are as follows:
- Remove the plant layer.
- Level the base.
- Compact with a tamper.
- Lay a 10 cm layer of greasy clay.
Concrete floor installation
Another common option for flooring in a poultry house is concrete pouring. To equip such a floor also does not require special knowledge and effort. The main advantages of concrete pavement are reliable protection against rodents and other pests, as well as durability (service life is about 20 years). It is resistant to moisture, fire and acid. 
However, this option is cold and requires mandatory insulation. Bedding for a concrete field can be made from natural (wood chips, straw, hay, peat, etc.) and synthetic materials. Floor concreting is carried out as follows:
- Level the surface.
- Lay a layer of gravel or crushed stone (2-3 cm).
- Install barriers around the perimeter.
- Pour concrete mortar prepared at the rate of 4 buckets of sand per 1 bucket of cement with the addition of water. The solution should be liquid in consistency.
- Smooth the surface with a wood leveler.
- Leave the floor to harden for a week.
Important!If wooden boards are laid on top of the concrete coating, then the best option for the floor for the poultry house will come out. It will be reliably protected from rodents and at the same time warm.
Wooden floor installation
Wood flooring is considered the best option. It is warm and does not require bedding. Its advantages are also environmental friendliness, simplicity and speed of equipment, as well as ease of replacement and the possibility of various insulation options. 
However, this flooring also has a number of disadvantages:
- exposure to fungi and other microorganisms that worsen the sanitary condition of the premises;
- flammability;
- the possibility of injuring the paws of birds with improper processing.
Boards are placed at a slight slope for ease of cleaning. Here is how a short instruction on the equipment of a wooden floor looks like:
- Lay logs of beams parallel to the foundation.
- If desired, lay expanded clay between the lags.
- Lay the boards perpendicular to the joists so that the joint falls in the middle of the joist.
- Nail the boards to the joists.
- Treat the wood with moisture-repellent solutions.
- Lubricate the floor with lime mortar to protect against pests.
Important! When laying a wooden floor, make sure that there are no elements left that could injure birds, such as nails, knots, sharp edges, etc.
How to quickly insulate the floor in a chicken coop
Warming can be done by laying litter from various materials. Its height should be from 10 to 30 cm, depending on the season. The most popular bedding options are organic materials - straw, sawdust, peat, hay, moss, corn husks. The most common materials for quick and economical floor insulation are sawdust, straw and hay. The most effective are moss and moss peat. When walking on them, the paws of birds are warm. In addition, they perfectly absorb odors and moisture. 
Straw keeps heat the longest, and sawdust does not cake. It is advisable to use sawdust only in combination with shavings and hay. To combine all these positive properties, mixed bedding is made. For example, they take 3 parts of shavings, 1 part of sawdust, add peat to them, and pour a layer of straw on top. Also, the floor can be lined with a bedding made of synthetic materials (fermented compounds) purchased in specialized stores.
Video: how to make a warm floor in a chicken coop
How to take care of the cover
Organic bedding should be changed at least twice a month. It is completely removed and disposed of, and a new one is put in its place. You can also add new layers on top of the old one. A complete replacement is made in the spring. Bedding from fermented compositions is changed once every 2-3 years. The litter is placed on a clean, well-dried floor.
Did you know? Despite the generally accepted opinion about the small brain of a chicken and its simple structure, an adult is able to remember about 100 faces, recognize the owner in a crowd at a distance of 10 m, navigate in time, and easily learn many commands.
If the floor is earthen, then its upper part, saturated with odors and droppings, is also removed when replacing the litter. They get rid of the smell by scattering sifted wood ash on the floor (1 bucket per 5-6 sq. M.). When changing the bedding, the wooden floor is re-coated with a layer of lime. 
In order for chickens to please their owner with high egg production, tasty meat and good health, he needs to take care of decent conditions for their maintenance. You can create comfortable conditions for your birds with your own hands and without much effort. The main thing is to follow the instructions and adhere to all the requirements described above.