Fashion photo editing in Lightroom. Efficient photo editing in Lightroom. What is Lightroom

I love Adobe Lightroom. But that doesn't mean I want to spend a lot of time using it. I'd rather shoot or give Lightroom tutorials, so I need to quickly process my photos in Lightroom.

How to Process Photos Faster in Lightroom

1. Use Caps Lock to Auto Change

When you need to work quickly in a module Library(Library), my favorite trick is to press Capslock on keyboard.

With Caps Lock enabled, you can use keyboard shortcuts to add metadata to an image and automatically advance to the next one.

• P to mark the photo as selected
• U to uncheck the image or skip the current one
• Numbers 1-5 are used for the corresponding rating in stars
• 1-6 used for colored label

I cannot recommend Autoshift(Auto Advance) as a quick and easy trick, but very effective. With it, you can quickly navigate through the picture, while keeping your fingers on the quick buttons, as indicated above.

If you do not want to use Caps Lock, you can activate the mode through the menu Photo > Autochange(Photo > Auto Advance).

2. Edit with Smart Previews

smart preview(Smart Preview) is like magic. Lightroom can create smaller versions of your shots inside the catalog so you can continue editing if you disconnect.

This is very useful for laptop owners with huge photo collections on an external hard drive. When it's time to leave your hard drive at home and hit the road, you can continue editing thanks to smart preview.

Another key feature for Smart Previews is that you can edit with them and enjoy enhanced productivity. Here's how it works: smart preview files are smaller than RAW files. They can be worked on faster than the originals, even when full resolution is available. We can force Lightroom to use Smart Previews instead of originals during editing.

To work with Smart Preview, go to the window Parameters(Preferences) Lightroom and select the tab Performance(Performance). Check the box Use Smart Previews instead of originals for editing(Use Smart Previews instead of Originals for image editing) to activate the feature.

3. Turning off the backlight will help you focus on the picture

Sometimes I need to focus on the photo I'm working on and not the Lightroom interface. This is where the regime comes to the rescue. Turned off the backlight (Lights Out).

To activate this mode, press L while in the window Libraries(Library). The area around the picture is darkened, and it looks bright and clear. Press the key again and the space will turn completely black. Another press of L returns the original view.

Disabled backlight works great both when viewing a single photo and when working with a grid. A key feature is that the interface dims so you can focus on the photo.

4. Add your logo to Lightroom

Let's get a little personal with Lightroom's new feature - personal inscription(Identity Plate). It allows you to add your own logo or image to the top left corner of Adobe Lightroom.

Go to menu Lightroom > Customize Personal Lettering(Lightroom > Identity Plate Setup). From the drop down menu select Personal(Personalised).

There are two options for a personal signature:

Check mark Text personal inscription(Use a styled text identity plate) will allow you to use system fonts to write your name or brand.

Check mark Graphic personal lettering(Use a graphical identity plate) allows you to use a transparent PNG file as a logo.

A personal signature is ideal if you want to use Lightroom to showcase your shots to clients. This slice of personality makes Lightroom feel like a branded studio program.

5. Beware of clipping!

clipping refers to the loss of details of light or shadow. Basically, when you overdo it in post-processing, highlights will be overexposed or shadows will lose important detail.

This can happen during shooting if the image is not properly exposed, but also occurs during processing.

This problem can be avoided by pressing the key J on the keyboard while in the module Treatment(develop). Or click on the little triangles in the top corners Histograms(Histogram) by enabling the function.

The red areas show the highlights, and the blue areas show the loss of detail in the shadows. Drag the sliders back into their range if you want to avoid incorrect exposure.

6. Drag & Organize Presets

I love Lightroom presets. These are settings that are activated in one click and are used to stylize or correct images. If your Lightroom catalog is the same as mine, you have probably accumulated too many presets over time and it would be a good idea to clean them up.

Preset panel items can be dragged and dropped to reorder and organize into folders.

Need a new folder? Just right click on the preset panel and select new folder(New Folder). Give it a name and get another group where you can organize the necessary presets.

7. Improve performance

If Lightroom is slow, I can suggest three ways to fix it:

1. On the tab Options > Performance(Preferences > Performance) uncheck Use GPU(Use Graphics Processor).
2. On the tab Options > File Handling(Preferences > File Handling) increase the size in the field Cache settingsRAW files(Camera Raw Cache). I installed 30 GB for myself.
3. Run periodically File > Optimize Directory(File > Optimize Catalog).

8. Frame creatively

You probably know that you can enter cut mode by pressing the key R in the module Treatment(develop).

However, you might not be aware of the various grids that can be placed on top of the image while cropping.

This screenshot demonstrates various clipping grids. Try them out for more creative framing.

While in cut mode, press the key O scrolling through the different options. They can offer great ideas how to crop your shots in an unusual way. Try to place key parts of the photo at the intersection of lines to draw the eye.

9. Loosen the effect of presets

We've already talked about organizing presets, but here's a great tip on how to change how you use them.

There are presets that I love, but I want to apply them weaker. Instead of the full effect of the effect, it would be nice to be able to overlay it as a layer in Photoshop and lower the opacity.

That's what The Fader plugin was designed for. Download it and then go to the menu File > Plugin Manager(File > Plug-In Manager) to install.

After installation, go to the menu File > Connect Additional Devices >Thefader(File > Plug-in Extras > The Fader) by starting to use the new plugin. You can select a preset from the drop-down list and apply it. Shrink Slider Opacity(Opacity) by adjusting the strength of the effect.

10. Automatically Hide Panels

I do most of my editing work on a tiny laptop screen, so space is a constant issue. It's hard to give enough space to a shot with all the control panels that Lightroom has.

Right-click on the photo feed, and on the left and right panels, selecting Auto hide and show(Auto Hide & Show). This will hide the panels, leaving more room for your shots. When the panel is needed, just point at the desired angle and it will appear.

I confess right away that I don’t own any secret technique, I don’t have magic presets, tricky programs, a tambourine and the like. If you do not need to do photomontage or collect a picture from several frames, then, on average, I spend less than a minute processing one photo. My processing method is simple, fast and far from the highest quality.
So, first things first.

1. The first stage is the most boring. Removing bad and unnecessary frames. When there is time, desire and strength, I try to clean the photos even during the shooting (or immediately after) on the camera monitor. This allows you to save space on your hard drive (especially important when traveling) and time when selecting successful shots on your computer. After copying the photos to the computer, I import them into Lightroom and start parsing - I mark good and bad files. Then I delete bad photos and start processing. This method is not the fastest, but I have long been accustomed to it.

The second stage is image processing. In 99.9% of cases, I shoot in RAW format and almost all photos are processed only in Lightroom. Half the time I spend on photography is removing dust from the sensor. Various cleanings no longer help, it's time to change the camera itself.

2. The basic tools I use are in the Basic panel. In addition, I periodically use the Color tab to control individual colors (most often blue), gradient filters and, of course, Lens Correction to eliminate defects in the optical lenses of the lens.

3. Crop tools, dust removal and gradient filters.

4. I do not process some photos at all and limit myself only to cropping (if necessary).

5. In other cases, I "stretch the RAW" quite a lot in different directions. I will not tell which parameter is responsible for which slider (this is a topic for completely different lessons), so I just post my settings in Lightroom.

6. In the case of shooting buildings, before color correction, I always correct the perspective, level the horizon and eliminate optical defects of the lens (distortion, vignetting and chromatic aberration).

7. In the third Lightroom, optical defects can be removed automatically if your lens is on the list of ready-made profiles.

8. If your lens profile is not listed, you can correct everything manually, for example, remove chromatic aberration.

9. Next, I perform color correction for "my taste and color." After that, I export the image, open it in Photoshop and run the reduction and sharpening script (I will talk about this at the end of the post).

10. Now some different examples. Click on the frame of interest and see the processing history.
View from the tallest building in the world.

11. Sayano-Shushenskaya HPP.

12. The Caspian Sea in Dagestan.

13. Kuban Sea.

14. Akhshtyrskoe gorge.

15. Inguri river valley in Georgia.

16. Plitvice Lakes in Croatia.

17. Belaz on a limestone quarry in Lipetsk.

18. Evening street in Khiva, Uzbekistan.

19. Kalmykia.

20. Khiva.

23. The method is very simple and I came up with it myself (although I am sure that I was far from the first to come up with it).
In Photoshop, I have several recorded scripts (actions) for a specific format and preview size in pixels (left picture).
If you expand any scenario, then everything becomes clear:
- photo reduction to 2000 pixels
- Unsharp Mask
- reduction to 918 pixels
- again Unsharp Mask
- launch script for adding copyright

I have written a script for adding a copyright separately:
- open image with copyright (PNG format file with transparency)
- select, copy, close file
- insert into the prepared preview, alignment relative to the lower right edge
- reduction of copyright transparency

24. Lightroom has a great tool for exporting thumbnails with the addition of copyright and sometimes I use it to save time. This method has two drawbacks - there is no full control over the sharpening settings (only 2 modes to choose from) and there is no way to adjust the degree of transparency of the copyright on each photo.

This is how I process 90% of all my photos. It happens that you have to collect an image from several frames, stitch a panorama or do a “manual” HDR, but all these cases are individual.
I once talked about gluing panoramas:

Ask if you have any questions!

There is a Triangle of Services that you have probably already seen, and it goes something like this: there are three options (cheap, fast, high quality), but you can only choose two. I first saw this sign in a car shop a few years ago, but it applies to just about any professional activity for the production of goods or the provision of services, and this applies especially to photography.

As a photographer, you don't have unlimited time, but you and your client expect to get good results, and that's not always cheap or fast. Luckily, Lightroom makes it possible to do basic portrait editing in just a few minutes, which you can then apply to other photos to make your work even faster.

Before I get to the heart of this article, I want to be clear that the following steps are the process that works for me, but your unique solution may be different. It's important to find and put together an optimal workflow that's easy to copy and repeat so you don't spend all your time doing the same editing steps over and over again.

Whatever editing program you work with - be it Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or even free tools like Photos or Picasa - it makes sense to develop your own editing style that suits your style. I know that the overall look of the portrait I want to achieve may be quite different from what you prefer. It took some time to figure out how to achieve my particular style, but now my processing takes much less time, because I have compiled a certain series of actions for processing my photos:

1. white balance
2. sharpness
3. Vignetting

These steps are fast, and usually make up 90% of the entire processing, and often lead to the finished result without additional editing. Let's go through these steps one by one:

This original is good enough, but still needs some tweaking before I give it to the client.

Step 1: White Balance

One of the advantages of shooting in RAW format is the ability to calibrate the White Balance of your image, while shooting in JPG leaves not much freedom not only regarding the White Balance, but also most of the parameters of the photo. Of course, the downside of shooting in RAW is that adjusting the White Balance can be time consuming, but a lot of that can be fixed with Lightroom's Eyedropper tool (target tool) instead of manually moving the sliders.

To quickly adjust the White Balance, click on the Eyedropper button, then find an area in your image that retains the naturalness of the color - I think a slightly gray is better than pure white. This tool may not pick up perfect colors everywhere, but you'll quickly get there, after which you can adjust the Temperature and Hue to your liking.

Another tip to speed up the adjustment is to click right on the Temperature and Hue numbers and use the up/down arrows to set the value you want, or hold and do the same for more changes.

Step 2:Tone

Having finished with the White Balance adjustment, we move on to other initial settings using the Main panel in the Corrections module. To achieve my particular style, I usually start with the following values. To quickly change each setting, highlight the value and enter a new one, then press to instantly jump to the next one.

Exposure 0, Contrast 0. I don't change these values ​​until I make the following settings, which you can see below. They are global and affect the entire image, which is not what I want to do right now. If the image is still too light or dark after the rest of the basic settings, I'll increase or decrease the exposure accordingly, but I rarely need to adjust the contrast, and you'll see why in the next steps.

Light -25. This works even in overexposed areas of the portrait, so any overly bright spots will be toned down.

Shadows +20. This is a way to lighten up the dark areas of a portrait and bring out a little more color and detail.

White +20, Black -25. I use these sliders instead of adjusting the contrast because it gives me finer control over general view and the feeling of my portrait. I'm essentially making the Whites and Blacks cleaner, which gives the portrait a richer look. Some people skip this step and make adjustments in the Tone Curve, but this is a matter of personal preference, although in my opinion it is much faster to adjust the Whites/Blacks.

Clarity -5. Most people turn up the Sharpness, which essentially affects edge contrast mostly in the midtones, but I like a more subdued look, so I usually start by lowering the sharpness a few stops.

Juiciness 0 (zero). This slider mainly affects colors outside the normal range of the human eye, so it can be useful for outdoor shooting if you want to make natural colors more vivid. I leave this value at zero and then adjust as needed.

Saturation +5. I usually like to add a bit of color, so I start with a small increase in value and then move up or down as needed.

I always start with these adjustments, and then adjust them individually. The whole process takes only a minute and almost always results in a result that looks significantly better than the imported image.

This shot is already brighter than the original, although the settings were very simple.

Step 3: Sharpen

Once the color and tone adjustments are done, I almost always add some sharpening to the image. In portraits it is important to keep the eyes in focus and sharpness, so the next step after the Basic Settings is to use the Details panel to get the necessary sharpness.

Click on the target symbol in the top left corner and then click on your model's eyes to zoom in, then adjust the sharpness. I usually start with a value of 50 and then use advanced settings like Radius and Details if necessary, but this basic setting is quick and usually gives me the effect I want.

I also apply a mask to sharpen so that the changes do not affect the rest of the areas. Thus, the eyes remain sharp, and the skin of the face does not acquire unwanted texture. If you hold ALT while clicking on the Masking slider, you will see something like this (see below). White areas will be sharpened, but black areas will not. Use this to decide how big the mask will be applied in your portrait.

Step 4: Vignetting

This step is a little controversial - some people love vignetting, while others find it completely out of place in contemporary photography, but like I said at the beginning, it's all about the style and workflow that works for you. I usually add some light vignetting to my portraits, but if that's not your thing then just skip this step. It's not part of the five-minute workflow, but it fits in nicely with mine, which is why I included it here. I use light highlights on the main area and dark vignetting, trying to make the effect very subtle.

That's it - it's done

Following these four steps won't always lead you to a finished portrait, but as the title of this article implies, you can have a well-edited portrait in less than five minutes with these simple steps. You can then apply additional tools like brushes, blemish removal, or red-eye correction, but these steps will do most of the most important work.

After - slight changes, but you can see the difference

Save your settings as a preset

And the last way to speed up the processing even more is to create a preset that is based on your workflow, so that you can then apply it to the rest of the imported photos.

If you use this option, then make allowance for the possibility of error and be more restrained in editing to create a preset. You probably won't want to apply drastic changes to every photo, but if you find yourself going through the same steps over and over again, it might be time to create a preset.

You can apply it as you wish after importing by right-clicking on any photo in the Adjustments module, or by selecting your preset in the Adjustments section (or by finding it in the Preset Options panel on the left side of Lightroom).

If you use Photoshop to edit photos, then you probably know that the same task can be solved with different tools. The possibilities of Photoshop are so great that to achieve the same result, photographers can go different ways and it's hard to say which way is "correct".

Lightroom is often referred to as the "alternative photoshop". Just like Photoshop, in Lightroom you can use different tools to achieve the same goal. Far from always obvious and conspicuous way is the best.

The purpose of this article is to tell a few Secrets of Lightroom and introduce you to alternative, but very convenient ways to solve typical photo processing tasks.

1. Use Luminance instead of Saturation

It often seems that on a clear day it is very easy to take a beautiful picture with a bright blue sky. But if you shoot objects that are on the ground, especially in the shadows, then the frame may turn out with an overexposed or dull sky.

When processing a photo in lightroom, you usually immediately want to increase the saturation of the sky with Saturation, but this is not always the best solution.

The Saturation slider increases the saturation of all colors at the same time, which can get in the way if the goal is only to increase the saturation of the color of the sky. Using this slider, you can get other difficulties, because the saturation will increase where it is not required, for example, on the skin of the model.

An alternative option is to use the "HSL / Color / B&W" panel.

In this panel you will see Hue, Saturation and Luminance tabs. In the Saturation tab, you can increase the saturation of only individual colors that are associated with the sky, without affecting other colors.

But then again, using Saturation may not give the best result, the colors will become exaggeratedly cartoony if you overdo it.

A good alternative would be the Luminance tabulator. You will operate not with saturation, but with the brightness of the color. Use the blue slider on the Luminance tab and you'll get a nice deep color for the sky without affecting the other colors.

You can read more about using Luminance in the article -

2. Combine Adjustment Brushes

The Adjustment Brush is a great tool for changing only certain parts of a photo. One of the biggest advantages of the brush is that, unlike Photoshop, it does not directly affect the image. You can change the change options in the brush area at any time if you don't like something or just delete it.

Even if several brushes were used, combining the parameters to achieve the best result. For example, to blur a specific area, you can set the brush to Sharphess at -100. And since this setting does not give a very strong blur, apply the “blurring” brush to the same area several times, achieving the desired effect.

To enhance the effect of the brush, after you have worked with it, click on the New button. This will create a duplicate brush with the same settings and you can use it on top of the first one. Repeat the action as many times as needed.

Keep in mind that these will still be separate brushes. You can select one of them again at any time and change the settings, for example, by decreasing the Sharphess value.

Each brush in the picture looks like a circle. If you hover over it, you will see the area of ​​effect of the brush. To select the desired one, click on it and a black dot will appear in the center of the circle. Now you can change the settings of the selected brush.

3. Quick skin retouching on a portrait

There are a lot of factors that affect how the skin comes out in a photo. For example, the skin may turn out too red and not very smooth.

In order to fix this, you can use several tricks. You can use together or separately. The main thing is not to overdo it. Best the enemy of the good.

First you need to change the brightness (brightness). Especially if the skin is reddish or too dark. Raise the brightness slightly, this will make the skin tone look more natural. An added bonus is that as the brightness increases, wrinkles and pores on the skin will not be as noticeable.

Then it is worth remembering the Luminance tabulator again. Try increasing the Luminance value for the reds and oranges. This will make the skin lighter and give it a healthier tone.

In order to make this action even easier, there is a little secret.
Note that there is a small circle to the left of Luminance's name. Click on it, then move the cursor to the area you want to change. Lightroom will automatically track the colors that are under the cursor.
To change, just move the cursor up or down while holding down the left mouse button.

This secret works in all three tabs Hue, Saturation and Luminance

Also, Lightroom has a great tool that is ideal for retouching a portrait - the Soften Skin brush. If you "paint" on the model's face with this brush, the sharpness will be locally reduced due to the Clarity and Sharpness parameters.

You can set other options if you decide that the suggested defaults are not suitable for this case.

Finally, there is another way to tidy up your skin. Go to the Noise Reduction tab, which is responsible for noise reduction.
Noise reduction also leads to some blurring, which can positively affect the portrait.

But be careful. Noise reduction applies to the entire image as a whole, and not to its individual parts. Therefore, you can spoil the image as a whole.

4. Changing the grid when cropping

Cropping a photo in Lightroom has hidden options to tweak the composition. Initially, the grid divides the frame into 9 parts according to the rule of thirds. But Lightroom has 6 grid options that you can use when cropping.

To see another option, just press the "O" key (Latin keyboard layout). When you press the Shift-O combination, the grid will be mirrored.

You can also see all possible grids by selecting Tools > Crop Guide Overlay from the menu.

5. Double toning for a retro photo effect

Double toning (Split-toning) is a very popular way to create various effects. Especially for creating antique or film effects. Similar effects are very actively used by Instagramm and many online editors, which provide the opportunity to get this or that effect “by pressing 1 button”

If you have previously used presets to create retro effects, but pay attention to what settings are set for the Split Toning tab. You will surely notice that they have the same structure, especially if you look at the Hue values ​​​​for shadows and lights (highlights, shadows).

In the highlights, the slider is moved to the left of the center, in the shadows to the right. Such a situation will almost always give a rather interesting effect.

Try setting Hue to the same position and then play around with the Saturation and Balance settings. But the result of changing these settings will greatly depend on your picture, more precisely on what is in it and what colors are priority.

Therefore, double toning is a very creative tool and it is difficult to give any ready-made recipes here.

If you are too lazy to do double toning on your own, creating antique effects, you can either use a wonderful plugin

6. Reducing Preset Strength in Lightroom

One way or another, we all use presets for Lightroom. It's nice to get something special with just the click of a button. But very often, applying a preset gives too strong an effect. For example, colors can become exaggeratedly bright, which is not always good.

In such cases, you want to slightly weaken the power of the preset, but Lightroom does not have a regular tool for this action.

More precisely, there are ways, but they are inconvenient. You can manually track the bookmarks, which parameters are changed and reduce the strength of each of them.
The second way is to use Photoshop. Take the original image, make a layer on top of it with the preset and change the transparency of this layer, achieving the desired degree of impact.

But there is a third way. Jarno Heikkinen has made a custom plugin for Lightroom that can be safely downloaded from his Knobroom.com website. The plugin is called "The Fader" and does exactly what we need - reduces the strength of the effect of the preset.

After you download and install the plugin, open the photo and go to File > Plug-In Extras > The Fader
A window will appear where you can select a preset and the strength of its effect on the picture.

7. Photo Information

While in the Develop module, press I on the keyboard and information about the image will appear in the upper left corner of the image. If you press I again, the information will change.

This can be very useful if you want to quickly look up source information or basic Exif data.

In addition, you can customize the information that you want to see in this mode through the menu View > View Options
And then in the Library View Options dialog that appears, open the Loupe View tab and select the data that you need most often.

8. "Lights out"

This is a well-known but rarely used Lightroom tool, which is nevertheless very useful.

When you want to focus on a specific area, use the Lights Out feature. For example, if you select certain pictures from a series. Lights Out will darken all other pictures except the selected ones.

If we press L again, the background, except for our selected thumbnails, will turn completely black.

This mode is also available in the Develop module. It can be useful to evaluate the image more accurately, without being distracted by interface details and other interfering elements.

9. Solo mode

There is another very interesting Lighroom mode called Solo.

While Lightroom's overall interface is very user-friendly and thoughtful, with so many settings and tools, it can be difficult to quickly find what you need. You can spend a lot of time scrolling through panels and constantly opening and closing them.

Especially for this, the developers of Lightroom introduced the Solo mode or the "single tab" mode. It works very simply - every time you open a toolbar, all others are automatically minimized. This greatly increases the speed of the program.

You do not believe? Just try. We are sure that soon you will not be able to imagine life without this mode.

To enable the mode, right-click on the title of any panel and activate the Solo Mode item in the menu that appears

10. Useful keyboard shortcuts

Finally, in addition to the article about , some useful keyboard shortcuts.

• Automatic transition when Caps Lock. If you press CapsLock, then when you assign a color marker, flag or rating to a picture, you will automatically go to the next picture. This is extremely convenient for the initial selection of images.
• Library Views. Pressing G will show thumbnails in grid mode. E - Enlarges the selected photo. C - compare mode, and D - switch to the Develop module for the selected image.
• Quick hide panels. The F5-F9 keys quickly open and hide the main 4 panels of the Ligthroom interface - top, bottom, right and left.
• Alternate mode. Pressing the Alt key will put some tools into alternate mode. See the article "" for more details.
• Reset sliders. Double clicking on any slider will reset its value to its default value. Or when you press Alt, you will see a pseudo Reset button - clicking on which will do the same.
• Horizontal or vertical alignment. In cropping mode, press the Ctrl key and without releasing it, draw a line with the mouse, which must be strictly horizontal or vertical. Lightroom will automatically rotate the photo accordingly. This is incredibly handy, for example, for leveling the horizon.
• Hide all panels. Ctrl + click on the title of any panel in Develop mode will collapse all panels.
• See all keyboard shortcuts. Press Ctrl + / and you will see a box with all the available shortcuts for the selected Lightroom module

Original article: tutsplus.com © Josh Johnson

Do you travel a lot and your camera's memory card becomes full too quickly? Do you want to choose the best shots and delete unnecessary ones without spending many hours on it? The quality of the footage is not always 100% satisfactory, but there is no time or desire to learn how to use Photoshop?

Many photography gurus believe that Photoshop photo editing software is not the only panacea, and there are several much more convenient and modern functionalities in the world. And if you answered yes to all the questions above, try testing Lightroom.

Let's take a look at the steps on how to quickly process vacation photos in Lightroom.

Import and select photos in Lightroom

Importing photos into Lightroom is convenient and simple - just insert a memory card into your computer. Moreover, the opening of each frame occurs in its own interface, and therefore working in Lightroom with a large amount of footage becomes convenient and understandable. Further algorithm:

• Deleting bad photos at the very first stage allows you to efficiently use disk space and time. On the bottom panel with checkboxes, you need to select the two left ones, and on the keyboard use the X key.

• The remaining photos in Lightroom are easy to rename according to the selected template. Frame numbers should be entered in three-digit form so that their list is displayed correctly. To get the renaming dialog, use the F2 key.

• Selected and saved frames can already be partially processed at this stage. For example, add clarity, enhance secondary shades or use noise reduction. Having determined the optimal parameters for your camera yourself, it is enough to create a User Preset and apply it to the first selected frame, select the entire set and press the Sync key.

Building a composition on a photo in Lightroom

Recommended by shooting experts, it is not always possible to catch offhand during a photo hunt. Animals or children most often do not wait for the photographer to point the lens at them, and landscapes tend to fall sideways in the viewfinder, and unwanted citizens climb into the frame with strange gestures and facial expressions. The crop function in Lightroom, called by the R button, helps to cut off all unnecessary.

There is a button on the cropping panel in the form of a lock, by closing it you will allow the system to respect the original proportions of the frame, and by opening it you will be able to cut it arbitrarily at your own request:

• The "littered" horizon should be straightened in any case, if it was not intended to create special dynamics in the frame.
• Extra cars and parts of people and animals that fell into the viewfinder against the will of the author usually distract the viewer from the main idea of ​​the picture, and therefore they will have to be cut off as much as possible and ruthlessly.
• Using the golden ratio rule, photographers tend to place the main subject in the frame at one of the intersection points of two vertical and two horizontal lines dividing the image into nine fields. It is desirable to leave empty space in the direction of movement or the look of the model in the photo.

The main parameters of Lightroom for photo editing

The main options that you can use in Lightroom for photo editing are:

• Temp allows you to change the color temperature of the image or the so-called "white balance".
• Tint- changing the hue also affects the "white balance".
• exposure- This is a tool with which it is possible to make a frame darker or lighter. Suitable only for initial correction if the picture is underexposed or overexposed.
• contrast- a function to enhance or reduce the contrast of the frame.
• Highlights allows you to darken or, on the contrary, lighten all areas of the resulting image that look light at once.
• Shadows, on the contrary, brings dark areas out of the shadow.
• whites brightens the image to extreme values, followed by full exposure.
• Blacks is the limit value of the shadows. The last two points require accuracy and a sense of proportion.
• Clarity is responsible for the clarity of the image and makes it possible to give the frame a special volume and texture.
• Vibrance subtly saturates the image with color without overshooting.
• Saturation less intellectual function and, unlike the previous one, requires the artist to have a sense of proportion.

Unlimited Possibilities

And the latest version of the smart Lightroom program allows you to correct or, on the contrary, create a vignetting effect, defeat distortion when shooting with wide-angle lenses, apply a gradient filter to adjust the amount of light in certain areas of the image, remove dust spots on the matrix, clone image sections and select those parts of the frame to which you want to pay special attention to the viewer. There are special effects in the program, and it makes it possible to independently create the necessary filters, save them and apply them to subsequent frames as desired.

Exporting photos from Lightroom and uploading to hosting is also convenient and brought to automatism. The program sets the required size for images and puts down the selected watermarks.

That's it - everything is simple and no photoshop!