Training program for the development of communicative competence of teachers. Socio-psychological training as a condition for the development of communicative competence. Exercise "Hot chair"

06.03.2020

There are several methods of wood processing:

Cutting;
Sawing;
Planing;
drilling;
chiselling;
Cutting;
Cycling;
grinding;

To perform each of these techniques, you will need a specific set of tools and possession of a specific set of knowledge. If you have never encountered some kind of technique, then at the first experiments you may not succeed. You should not get upset at the same time - even the most skilled craftsmen always started from scratch.

It is used only when processing logs, plates and quarters. This processing technique consists in separating the bark from the solid wood. The main tool that is used in the work is an ax.
All actions of the ax are directed from the top to the base in a circle of the trunk. In this case, the ax blade should not penetrate deep into the bark layer, so as not to damage the wood itself. In the course of work, along with the bark, protruding knots should also be cut off, thereby preparing the wood as much as possible for further processing.

Sawing wood

This technique includes two varieties at once.

Firstly, during the mechanical sawing of logs and plates, boards of varying degrees of quality can be obtained.

Secondly, with the help of this technique, certain details can be made from the received boards.

We will not touch on the first type of sawing, because it requires special equipment that is used only in woodworking enterprises.

The second sawing method can also be performed on a workbench at home. Depending on how thick the solid wood is chosen, you will need to choose one or another saw. By how you fix the workpiece on the workbench, the sawing technique used during the work depends. If you fix the workpiece on the workbench horizontally, while the saw is perpendicular to the part itself, then this technique is called horizontal.

At the same time, the cutting place should slightly extend beyond the surface of the workbench, so that during work you cannot damage the working board, and the procedure itself will be much more convenient. A feature of the cross cut is that the cut does not pass along the fibers, but across them. This increases the likelihood of spalling both from the left part and from the sawn off part. Well, if the split occurred on the sawn off piece - you can easily then remove the excess wood from the desired part.

But if the chipping occurs exactly where you need to have a smooth, even surface, you will either have to restore the wood or cut out a new part. A thin hacksaw with a “mouse tooth” will help you avoid such troubles.

If you need to saw off a board or bar at a right angle or at an angle of 45 degrees, and you already have a miter box at hand, then you only need to lay the board evenly in the groove, press it to the side farthest from you and evenly, without moving the workpiece, cut off an unnecessary piece . When cutting, make several movements with the hacksaw blade along the already marked line, thereby strengthening the blade in solid wood. In further work, you only need to adjust the movements of the hacksaw if its blade tries to get around a knot or a difficult area. Your efforts are reduced only to monitoring the uniformity of the penetration of the teeth throughout the area. There should be no physical effort with proper sawing: in this you can completely rely on the saw, but not with your whole body, because only a slight uniform pressure on the hacksaw during smooth movements will ensure an even cut. During this operation, the workpiece is best positioned so that the sawn off piece is on the left side. At the end of the sawing, the free left hand will more easily hold the unnecessary piece and prevent it from falling to your feet. All movements when sawing out a part are done in a swing, i.e. completely guiding the hacksaw blade along the cut. When using an electric saw, all operations are performed in the same way as when working with a hand saw.

This technique of wood processing consists in leveling the surface after sawing. Depending on the stages of planing, different types of planers are used. Lay the part prepared for finishing on a workbench and fix it. First of all, start with a rough leveling, for which use a sherhebel. In this case, all movements are directed across the fibers, but not along them, since too much wood can be removed.

If along the route of the sherhebel there are serrations that make processing difficult, then do not focus on them. Otherwise, in this place, the wood may break off, and the bar will become unsuitable for further work. After processing the surface of small parts with a sherhebel, it must be cleaned with a single planer, and then with a double one. If you are working with long parts, such as boards, then you are better off using a jointer or semi-joiner. The advance of the planer on the surface should be directed along the fibers, and not against them. Only in this way can you make the surface even and smooth. When planing the ends of boards and bars, make several movements with a planer from one edge to the center, and then several movements from the other edge to the center. This will allow you to avoid the formation of spalls and flakes at the ends.

This technique is used to make various holes. These holes can be through and deaf, deep and shallow, wide and narrow. Before you start drilling, you need to select a drill of the appropriate size, then mark the wood with an awl, fix the drill in the chuck and set the drill exactly on the mark. If you want to drill a blind hole, then as the drill moves into the solid wood, gradually loosen the pressure on the drill - this way you will avoid chipping the wood and forming a through hole.

Before starting work, secure the bar or workpiece in a vise well. Then mark on the surface of the wood, first with a simple hard pencil, and then make risks with a knife. If you need to make a sufficiently deep and large hole, then first select the wood with a chisel, and then proceed to clean the surface with a chisel. One more small note. Before you begin, give credit to the selection of wood near the edges, which are located across the direction of the fibers. Blind large holes are made as follows: drive in the blade of the chisel with a mallet, then slightly tilt it in the opposite direction from which the chamfer on the canvas was chamfered, and lift the canvas up.

Break the wood and separate several pieces from the array. Then step back 2-3 mm from the hole made and do the same. When finishing the edges of the recess, always retreat from it by 1-2 mm, and place the chisel with a bevel to it. If you lift the chisel blade with the chamfered side, then you will undermine the wood with the uncleaned surface of the blade. If you need to make a through hole, then sample the wood from both sides at the same time, gradually reducing the intermediate layer. Clean the slotted hole at the edges with a straight narrow chisel.

wood cutting

Cutting is always done either with chisels or with a joint knife. Most often, wood sampling is carried out with chisels, which allow you to make precise holes and recesses of various shapes and depths.

A joint knife can only somewhat replace a tool that does not exist. By using the tool best suited for the job, you will realize that replacement should always remain only a temporary event. The sooner you find the tool you need, the faster and better the work will be. Chisels are used in the same way as a chisel, only the impact on wood is made without a hammer.

Cutting wood is carried out as follows: on the markup, install the blade of the chisel with a chamfer inside the future recess. Then cut the chisel deep into the wood by 2-3 mm. After the first cut, install the chisel 1-2 mm deep into the intended nest and make the same cut. As a result, you will get a small notch. Gradually moving deeper and grabbing more and more wood in one go, you will make the hole you need. In the middle of the recess, an incision can be made to a depth of about 5-6 mm, but near the edges, so as not to damage the sides, only 2-3 mm, no more. In order to make a through hole, make a cut to the full depth from the very edges. If necessary, pruning can be done in several steps. After sampling the wood, be sure to clean the bottom and sides of the resulting recess with a narrow straight or semicircular chisel.

Wood cycling

This type of processing allows using a knife to clean the surface of wood as smoothly as possible, where a chisel or planer cannot do it. In this case, the process itself is more like scraping. The movements of the cycle are directed towards themselves, and the knife itself is set with a chamfer up.

After all the work is completed, you just have to level and clean the treated surface after the planer. For grinding the surface, an emery cloth is used, which is an abrasive coating on a paper, cloth or cardboard base. Depending on the size of the grains and the type of abrasive, several types of skins are distinguished. On the inner surface of the roll, pay attention to the letter and number designation. The letters indicate the types of abrasive used in the skin, and the numbers indicate the degree of grinding of the abrasive. The smaller the number on the inside, the finer the grains are applied to the surface of the skin.

If you saw the letter "C", then this means that crushed glass is used here.

"KB" in this case stands for quartz, and "KR" for silicon. These are one of the most commonly used abrasives.
Coarse, coarse-grained sandpaper is used for rough surface treatment, and for final grinding it is better to take fine-grained sandpaper, which will not leave grain marks on the surface. In order for the fingers not to get tired of holding the skin properly, take a small bar and wrap it with skin. In addition, such a bar allows you to evenly clean the surface without the formation of bumps and depressions. The evenness of the surface also depends on the force of pressure on the bar. The harder you press, the more likely it is that an uneven surface will form. The direction in which you grind is also important. When sanding across the direction of the grain, the marks will remain more visible than when sanding in the direction of the grain or somewhat obliquely.

It is almost impossible to do without glue when connecting parts. When gluing wood, you need to use an adhesive that should be either transparent or light, does not change the color of the wood, does not set too quickly, its excess is easily removed, and inside the seam it would help protect the wood from rotting and penetration of microorganisms inside. In addition, most adhesives are water repellent.

Bonding technology
Sticking technology

Adhesives

All adhesives can be divided into natural and synthetic. Depending on what ingredients are used in the preparation of natural glue, they are animal, vegetable and mineral. In the manufacture of synthetic adhesives, only artificially created compounds are used. Any glue that you need for work consists of several components: the adhesive itself, a solvent that maintains a certain consistency of the composition, a hardener that helps it to set and connect parts, and antiseptics that protect the treated surface from insects, microorganisms and various substances destroying the wood structure.

Among natural adhesives, the most commonly used bone prepared on the basis bone meal. But such adhesives do not react well to moisture, and therefore, if you are going to do something for a bath, sauna or put it near the pool, you better take another glue for gluing.

Casein glues are made on the basis of milk protein. They bond surfaces very strongly, but alkali is used as a solvent, which stains the wood.

Glue K-17 it is convenient for clean gluing of large surfaces, it forms a thin film and does not harden for a long time.

PVA glue, or polyvinyl acetate dispersion, sets quickly and therefore requires speed in work. It is a white liquid that becomes a transparent film after drying. This glue is the most versatile when gluing parts. carpentry glue can be used several times. To do this, you just need to heat the glue on the fire. Both carpentry and bone glue are sold in granules or shavings, which turn into a sticky mass at home. If you bought glue in the form of shavings or granules, then you can immediately pour it into hot water and, stirring, bring over low heat until completely dissolved. If you bought glue in the form of tiles, then before lowering it into water, crush the glue, then fill it with cold water in a bowl and leave it for a day until it swells completely. And only then transfer the pieces to another bowl and proceed to the gluing procedure itself. The finished glue should drain from the stick, which is used when stirring, it should be thick and resemble fatty sour cream in consistency.

In order to prepare glue, you will need to acquire a special device - glue stick. It can be replaced with two ordinary pans, and one of them should be slightly smaller so that it can be easily attached to the sides of the other with handles. Pour water into a smaller saucepan and add glue, and pour water into another so that the glue being prepared does not burn. If foam forms during the preparation of the glue, then it must be periodically removed. Most adhesives are not able to stand for a long time and the next day when room temperature take on a rotten smell. In order for the glue to stand for several days, when preparing it, you can add a few grams of phenol at the rate of 1 g per 1 liter. glue.

Now the prepared glue can be applied to the surface of the part. To do this, you will need either a bristle brush or lime bark, a piece of which has been pre-soaked. In any case, the adhesive is applied to the surface in a thin layer.

Gluing

There are two ways to connect parts with glue: gluing or gluing. Gluing is used for various joints on the spike and on the mustache. Gluing is used only in the manufacture of plywood, when finishing the surface with veneer, etc. There are two ways to glue the parts: by squeezing the surfaces with clamps or by rubbing the surfaces together after applying glue to them. Lapping connects mainly thin parts, which, after a slight setting, are adjusted to each other and left until the glue dries completely. This method of adhesive bonding of parts should occur quickly and clearly, therefore, before proceeding with its implementation, prepare everything you need for work: clamps, gaskets, tapes, supports, belts, as well as the surfaces of the parts to be glued, which must be clean. In case you accidentally stained it with dirty hands or dripped oil, wipe the dirt with acetone or alcohol. Bonding pads are used to distribute the compressive force as evenly as possible. It also protects the surface from the formation of dents when clamped with clamps. The gasket is always made slightly larger than the dimensions of the parts to be glued. Most often, gaskets are made from plywood sheets. Also, to avoid the surfaces sticking to the gaskets, you will need to place more sheets of paper between the gasket and the surface. When gluing using the compression method, be sure to ensure that when installing the clamps there is no displacement of the surfaces, which can then no longer be restored.

To make the seam good, durable, it is best to work in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 degrees. Also, the glue must be applied in a thin, even layer, while the glue should not be too liquid. But a thick layer is also unacceptable - when it dries, it will crack. Also, do not try to grind the surfaces to be glued - the planes should be slightly rough, which will allow you to get a reliable connection. If you need to glue several parts at once, do not try to apply glue to everything at once - in the lower layers the glue will begin to set, but will not be evenly distributed, this will make the surface look like waves. To prevent this from happening, divide the parts into several parts, glue the planks of the parts together, and then the parts. It is best to glue the levels, for example, in one step - the legs of the chairs, in the other - the seats. If you have to glue a complex structure consisting of many knots, then first connect all the parts without glue, adjust if something protrudes, and only then apply glue. Obvious defects during gluing cannot be eliminated, and it is also impossible to disassemble an already glued structure without damaging it. After you have applied glue to the nodes of the structure, you need to put it under a press and hold it for a certain time so that the glue completely sets and dries. If you used wood glue, then you can remove the part from under the press only after a day has passed. PVA glue requires less time - only 4-5 hours. But this does not mean that the glue is completely dry and the design is ready for further work. After the required time has elapsed, loosen the clamps, check if everything is as you need, if there are any shifts in the layers, and put everything on for a day so that the glue dries completely.

Sticking

Sticking differs from gluing in that only facing work is performed here. This is a fairly simple way to imitate solid woods using only veneer and a wooden base. In addition, this technique will also help you in the manufacture of mosaics, which will perfectly decorate the top of any table, cabinet doors, bedside table in the bedroom, etc. Although fine wood veneer is used here, and the work itself requires care and accuracy of the eye, this work can be performed even by a person who has never dealt with a tree. It is more like an application made of paper and cardboard. But there are several features that must always be remembered and observed during work.

Glue the veneer only on a very flat surface, slightly rough, but without visible notches. If I may say so, the surface of the base should be velvet.
The veneer must be glued across the direction of the fibers of the base, but not along, otherwise cracks may appear that will only spoil the surface. They arise due to different shrinkage of the veneer and the base.
If you are using an expensive veneer and sticking it on a particle board, then be sure to stick an intermediate layer of cheap veneer or cotton fabric.
When using burl or high-grain wood veneer, choose a base of carefully dried wood to prevent cracks later.
For gluing veneer on small surfaces, use PVA glue, and on large surfaces, use wood glue. This will help you to make the sticking better.

As well as gluing, gluing is carried out in two ways: by pressing and lapping. Both methods are performed in the following sequence:

First, apply a layer of glue to the base, then lay the veneer on it, iron it with a clean cloth, thereby removing all air bubbles from under it. After that, for a better connection, moisten the top of the veneer with a sponge and warm water. After 1-2 hours, when the glue begins to thicken, lap the veneer in the direction of the fibers, being careful not to pick up the edges. To do this, all movements must be directed towards the edges or diagonally to them.
Before leaving the structure to complete bonding, lay sheets of white paper on
seams. Now all this can be left as it is, or you can put it under the press, laying it on top of the veneer
paper, then a gasket and only then clamp it with clamps;
Screened and heated sand can be used as a press for parts with an uneven, curved surface. Place a sheet of paper on the surface first, thereby protecting the veneer from contamination, and then a canvas sandbag. The more sand, the more pressure will be exerted. But it should not be excessive so that the veneer does not deform. The optimal pressure will be exerted by a layer of sand of 9-11 cm. It is possible to release the surface from such a press only after the sand has completely cooled so that the veneer does not “bubble”.

Now let's talk about the disadvantages that may arise when gluing veneer to the base.

First of all, this is the formation of the so-called "siskins" - places where the adhesive layer was insufficient and air cushions formed. The simplest tapping will help you find such areas - empty places will sound muffled, under blows. "Chizh" should be cut with a joint knife, then carefully lift one edge and pour a few drops of glue into the void with a pipette or syringe with a needle with a large clearance. After that, with a rag, stroking the surface in a circular motion, spread the glue inside the former "siskin" and iron the seam, on which you then need to apply a paper strip.

Then this place must be ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 100-110 degrees.

Air bubbles formed due to uneven grinding most often have a convex shape. Such a bubble also needs to be cut, soak the veneer around the bubble a little, then pour a few drops of glue from a pipette or syringe and rub it with a warm iron through the paper.

Some veneer parts can move when glued. Thus, millimeters of excess veneer appear at the edges.

Only after the glue is completely fixed, they will have to be leveled. Depending on the size of the protruding edges, either a joint knife or a planer is used. The planer is suitable only for a relatively small protrusion - about 1 mm. The larger protrusion is removed with a joint knife. At the same time, be sure to place a plank of the same thickness next to the part so that the veneer does not break off during alignment.

solid wood itself is obtained from a sawn and peeled tree from branches and bark. The value of a particular wood depends on the type of tree, on the structure of the structure of its trunk.
Solid wood is used in carpentry in the form of different lengths of boards, beams, discs, beams, and various shaped elements.

You should first consider the very structure of wood in Figure 1.

1. Main sections of the trunk.

Here the main technological
cuts are:
- transverse (in Fig. 1 this is plane B),
- radial (plane B),
- tangential (plane A is a cut tangential to annual rings).

The most visual representation of the structural texture of wood gives a tangential cut. In the central part of the tree trunk
core 1 is located (the core is usually the loosest tissue).

2. Annual rings.

Annual rings diverge from the core in concentric circles around the circumference, forming sapwood; each ring represents a growth per year, which allows you to determine the age of the trunk.

Rice. one

A - tangential cut;
B - radial cut;
B - cross section

1 - core;
2 - core;
3 - sapwood;
4 - bark;
5 - core rays;
b - annual rays

3. Species of trees.

Wood species are divided into those with a core and those without a core. They are also called sound and non-core.

Non-core species have only core 1 and sapwood 3. In terms of quality, sapwood is significantly inferior to the core, and therefore, for example, oak wood itself varies in quality. The core of the oak is of value (for cabinetry), and the sapwood of this valuable breed is not used at all in carpentry.

Class carpentryit is unthinkable without the ability to distinguish tree species from one another and recognize them in a workpiece or in a product. For white wood works, coniferous species are usually used - pine, spruce and deciduous - birch, linden, poplar. Coniferous species are also used as a basis for gluing parts with plywood made from precious woods. In solid wood products, hardwoods are used for a transparent finish. When woodcarving is performed, which will then be painted dark, hardwoods are used - aspen, linden, birch, mountain ash, willow. With the natural color of the carved details, it is best to take a pear, maple, walnut, chestnut.

Brief description of the main tree species and their application

1. Hardwood.

Hardwoods are of the greatest importance in carpentry, of which oak should be given priority in our territory.

Oak(hard wood) - used in furniture production, in construction (milled wood parts, parquet), carriage building, shipbuilding, hydraulic engineering, oak wood is durable, strong, hard, resistant to decay, has a beautiful texture, bends well.Oak has clearly visible pores in a tangential cut, and core rays in a radial cut; very durable, easily stained to black. Real bog oak, which has lain in the water, has a color from brown-green to black. In combination with the radial cut, the texture of this oak plank is very beautiful.

Beech(hard rock) - used in furniture production (parquet, veneer, carpentry tools, containers), in shoe production (blocks), mechanical engineering. Acetic acid and creosote are obtained from beech by dry distillation of wood. Beech wood is strong, but prone to decay, good
processed, impregnated, bends well. It shrinks heavily when it dries.

Beech in its pure form is not expressive. In the radial section of the beech, shiny plates appear, visible from the end as dark dashes. Such a cut gives beech wood the most decorative qualities. But on the other hand, beech has almost no equal in strength.

Elm has a dark core and clearly visible annual layers. In a radial section, they form an interesting ripple. By the nature of processing, hardness and other properties, elm is close to oak. The texture of the wood is especially beautiful in the butt.

Hornbeam(hard rock) - used in turning, in mechanical engineering, in textile production. From the hornbeam, carpentry tool cases are made. Hornbeam wood is distinguished by its hardness, heaviness, is difficult to process, and is very resistant to abrasion. Like beech, hornbeam wood warps heavily when it dries out.

Ash(strong and viscous breed) - is widely used in the manufacture of sports equipment, in furniture production, in the aircraft industry, in car building, shipbuilding, and in housing construction.

Ash resembles oak wood, it is somewhat lighter, it does not have core rays. When stained and painted, it acquires an unpleasant gray hair, so it is usually used in natural color.

Carpentry and carpentry tools are made from ash. The wood is strong and viscous, has a beautiful texture, durable, resistant to decay. Ash wood bends well, warps a little, but is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. Elm, elm, elm (dense, strong breed) - these breeds are widely used in furniture and plywood production because of their beautiful texture. Having great strength, they are used in mechanical engineering and car building. The wood of elm, elm, elm, is distinguished by its strength, viscosity, density. Good resistance to wear, good bending.

Nut(hard rock) - sphere of use - furniture and plywood production, housing construction (internal wooden finishing). Walnut wood is heavy, strong and hard with a beautiful texture. The wood is well processed and perfectly polished. Linden (soft rock) - pencils, toys, musical instruments, and other products are made from it. Linden is also widely used in furniture and plywood production. Linden wood is soft, light and easy to process. When dried, the linden shrinks significantly, but warps and cracks to a small extent.

Walnut and Manchurian have wood of red-brown color, sometimes with dark veins, are planed with difficulty, lend themselves well to polishing and staining. Walnut burls have a particularly beautiful pattern; burls are cut into boards, assembled on a coniferous basis into shields. The hornbeam has a white-yellow hard wood, very heavy, suitable for imitation of ebony. It mainly goes to the soles of carpentry tools. Handled well, polished poorly. The pear has a beautiful pink wood with gentle lines of annual layers. The wood is dense, heavy, well polished and painted. Suitable for small-profile carvings, drawing tools. Little warps and cracks when dried. Due to the developed central trunk, the pear gives long, straight billets.

Birch(moderately hard rock) - widely used in the manufacture of skis, butts of guns, parquet, wood-laminated plastics, chipboard and fiberboard, cellulose. Housing construction, furniture and plywood production are also areas of application for birch. Where there is high humidity, birch wood is not used. Birch is uniform in density, moderately hard, well processed. The birch material is often imitated for valuable species, it is well polished, painted, and well amenable to impregnation. But birch is unstable to decay, warps, which narrows the scope of its application.

Maple(hard rock) - scope - mechanical engineering, plywood, music and furniture production. In shoemaking, blocks are made from maple, and blocks for planes are made in carpentry. Maple wood is characterized by strength, density and hardness, has a spectacular glossy surface. Good for painting and polishing. The shrinkage factor is negligible.

Russian maple, sycamore, black maple has dense gray-pink wood with a delicate pattern. The radial cut is especially beautiful. Maple easily polishes and accepts stains; it can imitate most rare trees with even grain wood. American maple, or ash maple, resembles ash in wood texture, but with smaller pores and denser wood, it is processed and polished with difficulty.

Aspen(softwood) - this type of wood has found wide application in the match industry, construction, and in the viscose industry for the production of artificial silk. Aspen, like poplar, is successfully used for various crafts, for making toys. Roof tiles are also made from aspen. The wood is soft, slightly knotted, light, well processed, well impregnated and glued. Of particular note is the strength of aspen in the aquatic environment, resistance to wood-biters. Aspen warps little and is resistant to cracking.

Poplar- used as a good ornamental material (dishes, troughs, spoons, toys, etc.), used in the production of cellulose, in construction. Poplar wood is soft, dries out rather strongly, bends poorly, and is prone to decay. The material of this breed has mossy. Alder (softwood) - the scope of alder is quite extensive - this is joinery and furniture production, plywood production, lumber production. Alder has proven itself well in underwater construction, in particular, log cabins for wells are built from it. Alder is used in the manufacture of souvenirs, it is a good material for artistic processing(woodcarving). Considering that the alder does not give a smell, it is irreplaceable in tare production.

Elm- southern wood with brown wood. Caps are often formed on the trunks of elm. Sawn boards from them are exceptionally beautiful. Plane tree, plane tree (eastern plane tree), growing in the south of the country, have a brown-brown core. The oblique direction of the wavy lines in the annual rings gives the texture of the plane trees, especially in the radial section, a grain-like appearance. Edible chestnut has a gray-brown core, the wood is similar to oak, but in a radial section it does not have shiny core rays. Horse chestnut is usually cross-layered, the wood is evenly colored, grayish in color (reminiscent of pine), convenient for carvings and mordants. Strength is high. Amur velvet (Amur cork tree) has wood similar to ash wood, but somewhat darker.

Rare hardwoods.

Rare hardwoods include pear, cherry, white locust, apple tree. In terms of density, the wood of these species exceeds oak and beech, has a beautiful color, is well processed and polished. Basically, the wood of these species is used in ornamental work.

White acaciahas a wide black-gray or green-brown heartwood, very strong wood with tangled fibers, which is difficult to work in a dry state. Wet - prone to brittleness. But work is rewarded with beauty appearance products. Mulberry (Mulberry) has red-brown wood (sapwood is narrow); wood darkens when exposed to light. fruit tree wood cherries, cherries, plums, apples, apricots- an excellent ornamental material for a wide variety of products. As a rule, it is a very hard, small-layered wood of various shades - from white-pink to black-blue and purple in the core parts. With the exception of sweet cherry, pieces of wood of these species are not long due to the branching structure of the trees. Birch- the most widespread deciduous firm breed suitable for various coloring.

2. Conifers.

Pine(soft breed) - good construction material in various fields, it has found the widest application in furniture production up to various artistic handicrafts. Pine wood is quite strong, light, soft. When drying, it warps a little, it is well processed, impregnated and painted.

Spruce(soft rock) - main application - pulp and paper production and construction. Good material for the furniture industry, for the manufacture of musical instruments, It is used in the manufacture of tannins. Spruce, as a material, is inferior to pine. Although spruce wood is of a homogeneous structure with pine, it is more knotty, it is processed worse, and it is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. However, spruce, due to its low resin content, holds glue better and dries faster. Spruce has white wood with barely visible annual layers. She has black, randomly scattered knots, in contrast to pine, in which the knots are located in whorls (groups at the same level).

Has a very nice texture juniper- coniferous shrub with trunks up to 10 cm thick. The end cuts of juniper, suitable for inlay, are amazing in beauty. The pleasant smell of wood lasts for a very long time and joinery from it can be compared with similar products from camphor laurel, so loved in Europe in the last century.

Cypress, thujasimilar in properties to juniper, but their wood is grayer and more wide-layered. Cypress does not crack or warp, which is why it was previously used for icon boards. Cypress, thuja and juniper lend themselves well to fine carving. The remaining conifers are less suitable for fine carving.

Fir(soft rock) - used in the pulp and paper industry, construction, furniture industry, in the manufacture of musical instruments. Fir is also used in medicine for the manufacture of fir oil. Fir wood is close in its characteristics to spruce. Soft and light, it is difficult to impregnate with antiseptics. The scope of fir is narrowed due to its instability against decay.

Cedar, Siberian pine(softwood) - the scope is the same as that of pine (construction, furniture industry, carpentry, pencil making, etc.). In terms of physical and mechanical properties, it is between spruce and fir, but is more resistant to decay. Well handled.

Larch - beautiful beautiful creamy brown wood.

3. Imported wood.

Eucalyptus(hard rock) - finds application in bridge building, in hydraulic structures, in underwater technologies and, of course, in residential and industrial construction. Eucalyptus wood is strong, hard and heavy. Very resistant to decay. But it is difficult to process, the core of the tree is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. It grows in Georgia, Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines.

Mahogany (mahogany). The wood of this tree is used to make high-quality furniture, panels, various crafts and accessories. Mahogany carpentry tools are highly valued. The veneer from this tree is used to decorate prestigious products. The wood is hard, durable, does not crack or warp. Very beautiful texture. Mahogany belongs to the species with low density, it is well processed in industrial conditions, but it is difficult to hand-process. It grows in Mexico and Central America.

Cork tree (balsa)- in carpentry, it is used for the inner layers of glued laminated wood. A good heat and sound insulator, a filler for rescue equipment. Balsa wood is the lightest, fastest growing and softest of all tree species. It grows in Mexico, Central America and South America (Ecuador). There is balsa in Georgia (Colchis).

Carpentry tools are the most sought after tool in the home workshop. This is explained by the fact that with all the variety of modern innovations, wood remains the most important ornamental material, without which it is difficult to imagine everyday life. Any man who prefers to do many household chores with his own hands has a set of carpentry tools. A carpentry tool is a necessary accessory for a self-respecting owner, that is, for someone who is ready to do everything himself, and not run to the store when necessary.

Carpentry tools is a wide range of different tools for working wood and making various wooden crafts and structures from wooden parts. In urban conditions, it is difficult to talk about the organization of a full-fledged carpentry workshop, but it is quite possible to organize a small corner for carpentry work. For the functioning of such a corner, a hand carpentry tool is needed, an equipped place for carpentry work and fixtures (incl. homemade devices).

An important condition for the organization of the workplace is to ensure the availability of the tool and the safety of work. In order to properly store carpentry tools, you should take care of the shelves and racks where the carpenter's tools will be located in a certain order. The workplace should have a first aid kit for first aid in case of injury. Consideration should be given to the safety of the location of electrical outlets.

Carpentry tools, taking into account their purpose, can be divided into several groups: measuring and marking; percussion, sawing, chopping and drilling tools of a carpenter, as well as an auxiliary tool. Various devices are important: clamping, supporting, etc. For ease of use, sets of carpentry tools are sold, in which the main devices are assembled.

Basic Toolkit

Basic carpentry tools are used for sawing, processing and joining wooden parts. It may be of general use or intended for a narrow application.

Impact tool.

The impact tool is used to connect workpieces, is used to ensure gluing and wood processing, for example, with a chisel. The main members of this group are:

Carpenter's hammer: unlike a conventional hammer, it has a flat striking side, but the opposite part is forked in the form of the letter V (nail puller).
Mallet: A hammer made of wood to prevent damage to the surface of the part when hitting it.
Doboynik: a metal rod of a conical shape for drowning a nail head.
Ax: A versatile carpenter's tool in which the butt is used as a striking part, and the pointed edge is used for chopping and hewing wood.
Adze: A type of ax used to gouge holes.

Tools for sawing and cutting.

The carpenter's sawing and cutting tool is used for cutting wooden parts to size and sawing out various shapes. Its main varieties:

Saw: single-handle, two-handle, circle, band, back - for different types of sawing.
Bow saw: has a tensioned cutting blade for sawing in both directions and at an angle.
Wood saw: hand saw with a handle (a shortened version of the hacksaw - award).
Jigsaw: allows you to cut a variety of shapes both outside the workpiece and inside it.
Carpenter's knife: has several varieties, incl. oblique knife - for cutting grooves in the thickness of wood or cutting veneer, its blade is cut with an inclination of 35-45º, and the thickness of the blade is 3.5-5 mm; meisel - a knife in the form of a chisel with double-sided sharpening at an angle of 20-35º, used in the final processing of a wooden workpiece; scalpel - a thin sharp knife.

Planing tool.

To prepare the surface you need:

Files can be attributed to tools of this type. They differ in shape and grain. Used for finishing and polishing surfaces.

Tool for drilling and slotting.

If it is necessary to form holes, recesses, grooves, the appropriate carpenter's tool is used. A drill is usually used to drill holes. In carpentry, drilling tools such as a brace and a gimlet are often used. To use them, you need a set of drills of different diameters.

Chisels and chisels are used to gouge grooves and grooves. If necessary, special chisels are used: cranberries - similar to a scoop and designed for deep cutting; reyer - for a rough impact on the tree.

Tools for measuring and marking

Carpentry work cannot be carried out efficiently without careful marking and appropriate measurements. For measurements, the following main carpentry tool is used: a square (in the form of perpendicular strips, with a ruler scale applied on one) - to check perpendicularity; center finder (isosceles triangle); erunok (control of angles 45° and 135°); malka (slats fastened with a hinge) with the installation of any desired angle; joiner's meter; ruler; calipers; level or spirit level for checking a horizontal or vertical surface; plumb; roulette.

The following are used as a marking tool: a carpenter's compass with the ability to draw a circle up to 3.5 m; thickness gauge - for drawing forming straight lines parallel to the main line, and transferring dimensions from the drawing to the part (thickness gauge has the form of a bar with slats equipped with teeth); comb - for the formation of spikes and corner joints; otvoloka - drawing lines to ensure a good articulation of the elements.

Auxiliary devices

For high-quality carpentry work, various standard or home-made fixtures are used. The following devices are most widely used: clamps, clamps and clamp clamps, clamps for reliable gluing of elements, presses, wooden and metal vices, stops, linings with an emphasis, a miter box to facilitate sawing at different angles, servants to maintain long parts, a bottom to facilitate planing thin bars, sawing table when using a jigsaw, workbench, tongs to hold the part.

Carpentry- installation of floors, ceilings, partitions, rafters, walls and laces associated with wood processing.

Joinery- manufacture and installation of window frames and sashes, frames and door panels, clean partitions, furniture production, artistic parquet floors and other cleaner woodworking.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, logs, beams, boards are connected in various directions with the help of mates - splicing, building up, rallying joints at an angle.

Mates produce notches and with the help of nails, dowels, bolts, clamps, staples, glue.

Splicing is applied when longitudinal connection of logs, beams, boards to increase their length, and extension - to increase their height

Rallying logs, boards and beams are made in the manufacture of large transverse dimensions of wooden structures (flooring, wall cladding, partitioning, etc.).

Angled connections logs and beams are made in the manufacture of window and door frames and canvases or bindings, cutting walls and partitions of wooden houses, etc.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, cutting, hewing, sawing, planing, drilling and chiselling of wood are carried out.

Chopping and cutting wood with an ax carried out in two directions: first, the fibers are cut across (after 40 ... 50 cm), and then they are cut obliquely, deepening towards the middle of the timber. Sawing begins with two or three short movements of the saw along the line of sawing, and after receiving an incision, they begin to work at full swing without strong pressure on the saw. In order for the cut to be open and not pinch the saw, it is necessary to put a lining near the cut.

When sawing several boards at different angles, templates are used that give the direction to the saw - “miter box”.

Planing requires compliance with the sequence: first, they are planed rough with a sherhebel, after which the surface is leveled with a single and double planer, and the final smooth sharpening is done with jointers. Jointers remove solid, continuous chips by moving a carpenter with a jointer along the workpiece.

When trimming(cutting ends) in order to avoid chipping off the edge of the workpiece, trimming must be carried out from the edge to the middle of the part, and then trimming the bar from the other edge to the same middle.

Hollowing nests, eyes etc., they are made according to the marking with notching the edges of the nest - the chisel is placed vertically with the blade across the fibers, chamfered to the nest, leaving a certain supply of wood on the sides of the nest, and light blows are applied with a hammer. The chisel is hammered 3 ... 8 mm deep, then it is taken out and the wood fibers are hemmed obliquely. Through nests are hollowed out on both sides, and markings are applied on both sides of the part. Through holes are first hammered to half the depth of the socket, and then the part is turned over and the hammering is continued on the other side. With cleaner work, the nests and eyes are cleaned with chisels after chiselling.

Drilling round holes it is made for setting bolts, dowels, spikes according to marking, template, jig template. Templates are made from sheet metal up to 2.5 mm thick, plywood up to S mm thick or dry boards. The diameter of the hole must be 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the bolt, dowel or stud.

Rules for connecting elements of wooden structures on dowels, bolts and nails:

· the distance between the dowels and bolts, as well as them from the end edge of the elements must be at least 5 diameters of oak dowels and 7 diameters for steel dowels or bolts;

the length of the nail must exceed the thickness of the nailed element by 2 ... Z times,

· the distance between the nails must be at least 15...25 nail diameters;

distance from the outermost nail to the end of the board or bar - at least 15 nail diameters, do not drive nails into the end of wooden elements in order to avoid cracks;

Do not stitch boards with a thickness of less than 4 nail diameters in order to avoid the possibility of their cracking;

Do not drive nails with a diameter of more than 6 mm into coniferous wood, and into hard wood (oak, beech) - more than 4 mm;

· if it is necessary to use thicker nails, it is necessary to pre-drill sockets 0.9 of the nail diameter to a depth of 0.4 ... 0.5 of the nail length;

driving nails into wet and frozen wood is not recommended; technical oil;

Nails should be hammered only with a hammer perpendicular to the surface of the elements to be joined;

driving nails, so that they do not pull out, should be done obliquely in different directions at an angle of approximately 15 0;

temporary nailing, if it is supposed to be pulled out after a certain time, it is done so that the hats protrude 5 ... 10 mm above the surface of the nailed element;

· Bent nails must be pulled out and replaced with new ones.

Adhesive connection wooden parts are produced mainly in the manufacture of joinery using bone, hide, casein, resin and special adhesives. The surfaces of the parts to be glued are carefully adjusted to each other and stretched with a cynubel. The wood to be glued must be dry, the glue is applied in a thin layer only on one surface of the glued. The elements to be glued are clamped with clamps or wyms. When squeezed, excess glue is squeezed out and only the necessary amount of glue remains between the surfaces for strong bonding.

Adhesive solution from bone and skin glue is prepared for 1.h2 days of work, it can be stored at a temperature of 5 ... KGS for 5 ... 7 days without losing its properties.

Preservation of the basic qualities of casein solutions - 4 ... 5 hours, resin - 2 ... 4 hours, special adhesives - according to the instructions.

When building small wooden houses, wooden chairs and plinths are sometimes used as foundations.

Chairs installed at all corners of the building, at the intersection of walls, under the main walls at a distance of 1.5 ... 3 m from each other so that their height from the ground is up to 75 cm.

wooden plinths perform sheathing of chairs (supports) with planed boards 25 mm thick.

INSTALLATION OF JOINERY

Finished joinery products are delivered to construction sites in containers. Protruding appliances of window and door blocks are packed separately.

Window and door blocks put in place as the walls are erected; in external walls they should be installed in the center, vertically and height at the same distance from the outer plane of the wall. In multi-storey buildings, each block of the second and overlying floors is centered on the middle leaf of the first floor block.

In stone walls, blocks are fixed with ruffs, which are hammered into wooden antiseptic corks embedded in masonry during the construction of walls. Vertical bars of boxes of blocks are fixed with two ruffs at a distance of no more than 1.5 m in height. Blocks are fastened to wooden walls with nails.

When filling window openings in industrial buildings boxes of blocks are attached to the side slopes of the openings with anchors, ruffs or other devices installed every 1.2 m in height, but at least two in each opening slope.

In plastered walls and partitions the boxes should protrude beyond the plane of the wall by the thickness of the plaster so that the casing fits snugly against the outer edges and the plaster.

Window and door frames of the outer walls at their junction with the masonry are processed antiseptic paste and wrapped with waterproofing pads (roofing paper, glassine). The gaps between the boxes and the masonry of the outer walls are caulked with antiseptic felt, tow and other heat-insulating materials, and in the inner walls with sound-proofing materials.

The hitch should provide smoothness of their opening and immobility in any position. The gaps in the sashes and porches of window frames and door panels should not exceed 1.5 ... 2.5 mm, in the sashes of the gates of industrial buildings - 2.5 mm. The gaps between the leafs of external doors (gates) and the floor should be 2 mm, internal - 8, bathroom doors - 12 and for gates of industrial buildings - from 10 to 20 mm.

External window sashes, opening outwards, must have wind hooks, opening inwards - stops.

Window boards installed with a slope inside the room up to 1%; the ends of the window sill boards embedded in the masonry of the walls must be treated with paste and wrapped with roofing paper or glassine. The lower surface of the boards is isolated from the masonry with a layer of antiseptic felt. Within the same room, window boards should be installed at the same level.

Joinery partitions are made at factories and delivered to construction sites in the form of enlarged shield blocks. Shields are connected by intermediate posts. Partitions are attached to the walls of the building with ruffs, which are covered with decorative glazing beads. The protruding corners of the partitions are made out with corner posts. Racks and partition panels are installed on clean floors and attached to them with strapping bars, which are framed with cornices.

Built in furniture(wardrobes, folding beds, tables, etc.) are delivered to the constructed facilities in finished form. Holes are left in the niches of stone walls, into which wooden corks are laid, fasteners and pins are closed. Furniture is attached to them.

For joinery electric planers are used on the construction site. Nests for door locks are marked according to templates, and arranged with an electric cutter.

As already stated, junctions of structures in buildings are drawn up skirting boards, fillets, platbands, flashings, glazing beads and other elements of a shaped profile. They are delivered to the construction site in a complete set, sawn off “in place”, fastened with nails or screws, joined “on the mustache” in the corners.

Decorative wooden products are delivered to construction sites finished, in packaged form. They are installed after the completion of the main finishing work.

All preparatory work- installation of frames, plugs, fasteners and ruffs - is performed before the start of painting work. After installing the products, they correct the finish in places of damage.

PERFORMANCE OF GLASS WORKS

Carpentry works - the device of floors, ceilings, partitions, rafters, walls and rows associated with wood processing.

Carpentry - fabrication and installation of window frames and sashes, frames and door panels, clean partition walls, furniture manufacturing, artistic parquet floors and other cleaner woodworking.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, logs, beams, boards are connected in various directions with the help of mates - splicing, building up, rallying joints at an angle.

Pairings are made by notches and with the help of nails, dowels, bolts, clamps, staples, glue.

Splicing is used in the longitudinal connection of logs, beams, boards to increase their length, and building - to increase their height

The rallying of logs, boards and beams is done in the manufacture of large transverse dimensions of wooden structures (flooring, wall cladding, partitioning, etc.).

Angled joints of logs and beams are performed in the manufacture of window and door frames and canvases or bindings, cutting walls and partitions of wooden houses, etc.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, cutting, hewing, sawing, planing, drilling and chiselling of wood are carried out.

The cutting and cutting of wood with an ax is carried out in two directions: first, the fibers are cut across (after 40 ... 50 cm), and then they are cut obliquely, deepening towards the middle of the timber. Sawing begins with two or three short movements of the saw along the line of sawing, and after receiving an incision, they begin to work at full swing without strong pressure on the saw. In order for the cut to be open and not pinch the saw, it is necessary to put a lining near the cut.

When sawing several boards at different angles, templates are used that give the direction to the saw - “miter box”.

Planing requires adherence to the sequence: first, they are planed rough with a sherhebel, after which the surface is leveled with a single and double planer, and the final smooth sharpening is done with jointers. Jointers remove solid, continuous chips by moving a carpenter with a jointer along the workpiece. When trimming (gouging the ends), in order to avoid chipping off the edge of the workpiece, trimming must be carried out from the edge to the middle of the part, and then trimming the bar from the other edge to the same middle. The slotting of nests, eyes, etc. is done according to the marking with notching the edges of the nest - the chisel is placed vertically with the blade across the fibers, chamfered to the nest, leaving a certain supply of wood on the sides of the nest and lightly hits with a hammer. The chisel is hammered 3 ... 8 mm deep, then it is taken out and the wood fibers are hemmed obliquely. Through nests are hollowed out on both sides, and markings are applied on both sides of the part. Through holes are first hammered to half the depth of the socket, and then the part is turned over and the hammering is continued on the other side. With cleaner work, the nests and eyes are cleaned with chisels after chiselling.

Drilling round holes is carried out for setting bolts, dowels, spikes according to marking, template, jig template. Templates are made from sheet metal up to 2.5 mm thick, plywood up to S mm thick or dry boards. The diameter of the hole must be 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the bolt, dowel or stud.

Rules for connecting elements of wooden structures on dowels, bolts and nails:

The distance between the dowels and bolts, as well as them from the end edge of the elements, must be at least 5 diameters of oak dowels and 7 diameters for steel dowels or bolts,

The length of the nail must exceed the thickness of the nailed element by 2 ... Z times,

The distance between the nails must be at least 15...25 nail diameters,

The distance from the end nail to the end of the board or bar is at least 15 nail diameters, do not drive nails into the end of the wooden elements in order to avoid cracks,

Do not stitch boards with a thickness of less than 4 nail diameters to avoid the possibility of cracking,

Do not drive nails with a diameter of more than 6 mm into coniferous wood, and into hard wood (oak, beech) - more than 4 mm,

If it is necessary to use thicker nails, it is necessary to pre-drill sockets 0.9 of the nail diameter to a depth of 0.4 ... 0.5 of the nail length,

Hammering nails into wet and frozen wood is not recommended;

Nails should be hammered only with a hammer perpendicular to the surface of the elements to be joined,

Driving nails so that they do not pull out should be done obliquely in different directions at an angle of approximately 15

Temporary nailing, if it is supposed to be pulled out after a certain time, is done so that the hats protrude 5 ... 10 mm above the surface of the nailed element,

Nails bent during driving should be pulled out and replaced with new ones.

Glue joining of wooden parts is carried out mainly in the manufacture of joinery using bone, hide, casein, resin and special adhesives. The surfaces of the parts to be glued are carefully adjusted to each other and stretched with a cynubel. The wood to be glued must be dry, the glue is applied in a thin layer only on one surface of the glued. The elements to be glued are clamped with clamps or wyms. When squeezed, excess glue is squeezed out and only the necessary amount of glue remains between the surfaces for strong bonding.

The adhesive solution from bone and skin glue is prepared for 1.h2 days of work, it can be stored at a temperature of 5 ... KGS for 5 ... 7 days without losing its properties.