How to photograph the starry sky - my experience. How to photograph a starry sky How to photograph a starry sky table

The starry sky has always attracted people with its beauty and mystery. Imagine how interesting it is to photograph it! What is needed for this? Camera with wide angle lens, tripod and flashlight.

Clear and moonless nights are ideal for shooting stars. It is better to get out into nature, leaving away from the city, because within its limits the stars are almost invisible.

Since the stars move across the sky, they will be smeared over a very long one, turning into arcs - “star tracks”. To make the tracks long and beautiful, you need to take a very long shutter speed (tens of minutes), for this you need a special cable release.

Canon 5d mark 2, Canon EF 28 1.8 USM
20 sec, F2.0, ISO 2500, stitching three horizontal frames.

If you want to capture real, sharp starry skies, you'll have to limit your shutter speed. To determine it, there is a "rule of 600": dividing the number 600 by gives an indicator of the maximum allowable shutter speed.

For example, the lens has a focal length of 30mm. Then 600/30=20 sec. This means that at a shutter speed of 20 seconds at a focal length of 30mm, the stars will remain quite sharp. Exposure is limited, and this is with a lack of light. In such conditions, it is necessary to use the maximum aperture optics, shoot at the widest apertures and increase to 1600-3200 units.

When shooting the starry sky, it is necessary to use, fully controlling the process. Camera automation and light meter will not work accurately, you should not rely on their data. Determine the correctness of the selected exposure experimentally - test shots.

Shoot in , it gives the best image quality, which is especially important in the context of such difficult lighting conditions and shooting at high ISO values. The choice of this format will allow you to set with maximum accuracy after shooting.

How to focus in a dark night? in such darkness it will not work, you will have to switch to manual focus. The sky and the stars are infinitely far from us, so the focus is on "infinity".

Wide-angle lenses allow you to get huge even in the open, and their “infinity” starts from a few meters. This allows you to sharpen not only the sky, but also the foreground, if it is included in the frame. In this case, it is necessary to compose frames in such a way that even the foreground is far enough away from us so that it remains sharp.

If the picture has a foreground, it can be highlighted with a flashlight. Let your imagination run wild, think about what kind of lighting, at what angle and what intensity is best for your story. With a narrow beam of a flashlight, during the exposure time, you can “outline”, gradually illuminate everything you need. Imagine that your story is a children's coloring book that you color with a flashlight marker. If you illuminate objects a little from the side, it turns out to better show their volume. Do not use car headlights or other powerful light sources to illuminate the foreground - they will most likely just light up everything. You can also try to use for highlighting the foreground by setting the minimum pulse power.

Everyone loves to raise their head to the sky and look at the stars. It calms, pacifies, gives a charge of positive and often just pleases. The starry sky is sung by hundreds of poets, romance is almost impossible without the flickering of thousands of lights, and school astronomy lessons left few people indifferent.

Photographers are no exception. To shoot buildings or models at night and not include stars in the composition means to exclude a valuable natural resource from work. And the night sky itself can be a great shot if you organize the whole shooting process correctly.
In order to shoot the stars correctly, it is not necessary to have a cool lens and years of experience behind you, it is enough to be familiar with the settings of your camera and carefully study the features of shooting at night. In fact, there are only a few important points:

• The right place for shooting and the right angle;
• Clear weather and clear skies;
• Necessary tools and equipment for filming;
• Correctly set camera settings;
• Competent processing of images in the editor after shooting.

If all the points are performed correctly and wisely, then the frames will turn out to be of high quality and beautiful.

Choosing a location for filming

Preparation for filming begins with the search for a beautiful place with a gorgeous view. It is best to get out of the city into nature and look for a hill. It is necessary to leave for preliminary, or sighting, shooting during the day, so that on the finished pictures you will not find unpleasant surprises in the form of garbage and other traces of human activity. Mapping out the angle in advance, taking test shots and determining the necessary equipment - such actions will save a lot of your time and nerve cells. Looking for a beautiful landscape in the dark is not the most pleasant pastime.

The frame with the starry sky should be filled with other static elements: houses, trees, a river, beautiful lines of hills. Some photographers set the mood with a campfire, tent, and other camping paraphernalia. A good contrast is made by architectural structures, abandoned buildings, towers and houses standing alone against the background of the starry sky. Over time, you will be able to find your style and create your own compositions against the background of the stars, and you can start by copying the already created pictures.

Weather

To shoot the starry sky, you will need the help of the weather, the sky should be as cloudless as possible, and the world around you should be as calm and serene as possible. With a slow shutter speed, moving trees will force you to take a large number of frames to assemble the finished picture. Running clouds in the star track shooting mode (the movement of stars across the sky) will create unnecessary noise and it will be problematic to remove them.

In addition, the night should be absolutely moonless, the moon will give glare and additional light, which at higher ISO values ​​will give overexposed areas. So, we coordinate plans with the weather, choose the best place and start preparing a hiking set.

Necessary equipment for filming stars

Once you have decided on the location of the filming and started to wait for the right position of the moon and good weather, you can look for the necessary equipment for the event. Photographing stars is a night shoot, so the basic tools and gear will be the same: a tripod, cable release or remote control, wide-angle lens (you can also take a Fish-eye), hot tea and comfortable clothes. Let's go in order:

In addition to filming equipment, take comfortable shoes and clothes with you, in cold weather - warm tea and food. Working on the street with minimal traffic for 2-3 hours, and sometimes up to midnight, will require strength and patience. For long shooting you will need removable batteries and memory cards, they are consumed quickly enough.

Camera settings and options

On the spot, after installing the camera on a tripod and choosing the optimal angle, you need to set up the camera. You must select the correct values ​​for the following parameters:

• The degree of opening of the diaphragm;
• Light absorption, or ISO;
• Excerpt;
• Focal length;
• Focusing;

We shoot at night, and in other situations, in the manual mode of camera settings. This will make it possible to bypass the standard camera programs and get unusual artistic pictures. Consider the process of settings in stages.

1. First of all, select the manual adjustment mode (M) or the shutter speed adjustment mode (T). In the latter case, the camera will select the minimum aperture value, and the image quality will be adjusted by manual focusing and changing the “Shutter” parameter;
2. We choose the minimum possible aperture value, that is, we open it as much as possible. There is little light and information on the matrix at night, which means that with a wide open aperture, the stars will be bright, and you will not have to greatly increase the ISO;
3. Light absorption, or ISO, is set from 400 to 1600, if set less, then nothing will be visible, if more, then excessive graininess will appear, which is also undesirable. We choose the optimal value for each situation empirically, moving from the average value, for example, from 800;
4. Focus should be in manual mode, point it to infinity. There is an option - for luminous objects, if they are available and are far enough from the camera. Here, too, can only be determined empirically, each composition requires an individual approach;
5. Exposure is the main tool for creating artistic effects in starry sky shots. A fast shutter speed will allow you to get a sharper image, without tracers of stars. At the same time, a slow shutter speed will allow you to get brighter and more contrasting pictures and more details. You need to find a "golden mean", or the optimal value, usually from 15 to 30 seconds.

Moreover, the longer the focal length, the more interference will be at slow shutter speeds. You can calculate the shutter speed using the formula: 600 is divided by the focal length, if the lens has a crop factor, it must also be divided by it. Sometimes slowing the shutter speed down to dashes instead of stars is an artistic effect, resulting in circular stripes around the polar star in the picture.

It is difficult for novice photographers to keep all the parameters and their combinations in mind, so choose interesting combinations empirically. You will most likely have to spend a little more time outside, trying different settings. But in post-processing there will be enough material to get interesting shots.
If, in addition to the stars, there should be other elements in the photograph with sufficient sharpness and correct color reproduction, then it makes sense to take several shots with focus on certain parts of the frame. For illumination, you can use lanterns, spotlights, passing cars, light from buildings, so you can dilute the starry sky with other interesting details.

Star Trek - an artistic technique when photographing stars

Photographers who use unusual techniques in creating their work will certainly be interested in the star track effect for shooting the starry sky. This beautiful way to shoot stars is quite simple and does not require special skills and tools. There are two fundamentally different techniques: shoot one frame at a slow shutter speed or take many frames and combine them using a specialized program.

Long exposure (more than 5-7 minutes) leads to overheating of the matrix and the appearance of noise and graininess, but such shots require minimal effort in the post-processing process. The second method will require more work from you - you will need to shoot for a long time in frames with a shutter speed of 15-20 seconds, and then peck them. This method has its advantages - you can make the lines as long as possible, which cannot be done with a long exposure. The matrix does not heat up, and the free Startrails program will collect the entire picture into a heap.

The tricky part of the Star Trek technique is finding the center point of rotation. Some stars move faster, others much slower, the polar star moves so slowly during the night that it can be considered stationary for about 40 minutes.

Organization of the filming process

In practice, everything turns out much easier than it looks in theory - most of the tricks are performed intuitively, changing the settings and position of the camera. But there are some practical tips that can make shooting the sky easier for you.

Summarizing the above

Shooting the starry sky is quite simple, knowing the features of night photography. To do this, it is not necessary to have an expensive camera and powerful optics; an ordinary “SLR” with a Kit lens will do the job quite well. If you choose optics, it is better to give preference to widescreen. Shoot at slow shutter speeds, medium ISOs and wide open apertures. For settings, it is better to choose manual mode and focus clarity with the lens. Shoot in RAW format, so there will be more material for post-processing frames.

A novice photographer needs a lot of practice and at the first shooting you should not count on a high-quality result. On average, you need to go out several times at night to feel the peculiarities of filming at such a time and find the optimal combination of camera settings. Train and improve your skills, photographic vision, intuition and artistic taste

Hey! I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. I often see images of stars in the sky from professional photographers. They are shot in different ways and from different angles, in different places, but they are certainly beautiful: a landscape against the backdrop of many stellar objects, the Milky Way or a real starfall created by the movement of luminous celestial bodies. Would you like to have such shots in your portfolio? My article is at your service.

Photographer's focus

The main question: how to photograph the starry sky? How to convey exactly the splendor that we see or how we wanted it to look? In Photoshop, we can work wonders, but it will not be so valuable, because there will be no documentary and real reality in the photo.

Therefore, I advise you to be fully armed at the time of the photo shoot and try to get an almost perfect shot. To do this, you need to consider the following factors:

• Composition. Contrary to the possible idea that shooting a sky with stars is only stellar bodies and the sky, it is worth concentrating on the surroundings as well. As in any kind of photography, you need to think about what objects will be included in the picture. For example, trees of an unusual shape, mountains, valleys, interesting natural objects, beautiful architectural structures - take your pick.
• Time. It is clear that you will have to take pictures at night, but when - when the stars are clearly visible and represented in the maximum number. The night should be without clouds. It is advisable to follow the phase of the moon: how bright it is and where exactly in the sky it will be at a particular moment. The time of year doesn't really matter.
• terrain. Firstly, you should choose a location that is more or less picturesque, since you will probably want to take pictures of the landscape, at least partially. Secondly, going out into nature is useful not only in search of beauty, but also in order to avoid getting into the frame of light from the lights of the city. Artificial lighting illuminates the sky, it, in principle, will be superfluous in the picture.
• Technics. And here are two points: the camera itself + optics. Of course, it's good to have a high-quality camera that allows you to shoot in high resolution, take clear pictures, and it would not hurt if there was a separate noise reduction function. But do not be upset if you do not have a very advanced and modern camera. Even on Nikon d3100 you can take a good photo.

Pay more attention to the chosen lens. If you plan to increase the illumination of the photo due to the open one and play with the f indicator, then you can’t go anywhere without high-aperture optics. Also, the device must be wide-angle, for example, 16, 24 mm, etc. With such data, you can cover a very large part of the sky and the rest of the landscape.

• Additional accessories. Any of your illuminators will come in handy, even an elementary flashlight or flash, which in capable hands is capable of much. Light is most likely needed to illuminate nearby objects, which could be more easily focused. You can also remember about color at this point to make the original backlight.

But more important when shooting the sky at night is something else - good. It should be high enough and stable. It is he who will fix the camera when you set the long one. Why did I mention endurance? Find out below, where we will talk about the settings.

How the professionals do it

This, of course, will focus on the camera settings.

1. Manual control. The camera can be almost anything, any brand (for example, Canon or Nikon). But what he definitely should have is a manual mode, with which you can maximally adapt to rather difficult external conditions.
2. Low ISO. Perhaps, beginners may be surprised: we are shooting in almost absolute darkness, without high sensitivity we will get only a black picture at all! This is not so: the photosensitivity should be no more than 200, so as not to create noise. When shooting the sky and stars, the emphasis should be on shutter speed. And read more about it.
3. Diaphragm. You shouldn't open it too much, because we need the largest one, since we want to capture the entire landscape. A large aperture, by the way, in such circumstances, in any case, will not give a noticeable increase in illumination.
4. Excerpt- is of paramount importance. It is on her that all lighting depends, and how the stars will turn out, that is, either clear (short shutter speed) or blurry, in motion (long). It is better to choose a specific value yourself, already at the place of filming. Remember that the earth rotates, therefore, with the set average time intervals, the stars can also be fuzzy. Keep in mind that in many low and mid-range cameras, 30 seconds is the longest. This is enough to show stellar movement, but in a small range. Thus, a slow shutter speed will both lighten the photo and turn dot stars into dash stars.
5. Focus. The most difficult thing with him: what to focus on in the dark? Turn off auto mode immediately, it just won't help you at all. With sleight of hand and a natural eye, we will have to adjust the focus. You won't see much in the viewfinder, so it's worth finding at least some lights and focusing on them. There is an option to highlight the foreground of the scene, for example, with a lantern, and focus on it.

When photographing with an amateur type camera or a professional expensive camera, in any case, the image of the starry sky will have to be retouched to a certain extent. So don't worry if something goes wrong, but don't get carried away with post-processing either! Count on yourself and actively use the acquired knowledge.

If you want to get to know your DSLR better than what it is capable of, then a video course will become your assistant. Why these courses? Everything is simple. They are designed for beginner photographers. Everything is told and shown in them in a very simple language, which will become clear from the first viewing. Many beginners, after viewing the course, talk with their SLR on you!

Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- who has NIKON.

My first MIRROR- who has CANON.

Till! Look for something new, set goals, grow, and above all, above yourself! Don't forget to visit my blog - the blog of your faithful guide to the world of photography!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

The main advantage of night photography is that such shooting forgives many mistakes. For such shooting, special weather conditions are not needed to get a beautiful shot. All kinds of night lights and city lights give us everything we can work with and get excellent shots. But if you try to photograph the night starry sky, then it will be a completely different story.

The reality is that shooting the night sky takes some skill. If you're going to do this kind of shooting, be prepared for your options to be very limited. And you have to be prepared for some overlaps and possible mistakes.

Taking beautiful photos of the night sky means being mobile. You will have to travel to remote places, travel long distances, to get a really worthwhile shot. Because of this, you will lose valuable sleep time. Therefore, let's try to avoid some mistakes when shooting the night starry sky. Therefore, I have prepared and analyzed for you 6 main problems that you may encounter when shooting stars.

Killer #1: Luna

One of the biggest enemies when shooting stars, and in particular the Milky Way, is the moon. This may surprise you, but it's true. Why is it so? Because the light coming from even a quarter of the moon is more than 100 times stronger than starlight. So the light of the moon just washes away the scene.

Having the moon in the sky also has its benefits. For example, the moon can light up the foreground of your chosen scene and help make a beautiful night scene. But when it comes to shooting stars (the milky way), the moon is a killer.

Moreover, the moon is in the night sky for most of the month. To be honest, I would not plan to shoot the night sky before and after 5 days from the new moon. Filming on a full moon is out of the question. The bad time to shoot the Milky Way is about 70% of the calculation per year. Thus, this is a pretty strong limitation for shooting.

So, how do you avoid problems with the moon? There are two ways to avoid it in the night sky, and for both of them you need a website called TimeAndDate.com. This website will tell you all about the phase of the moon. This way you can schedule your night sky shots on or near the new moon.

If you are not familiar with the phases of the moon and do not know what a new moon is, then I will answer, a new moon is when there is no moon in the sky at night. From the new moon, the moon will move into a crescent, a quarter, and then a few weeks later into a full moon (and then the process will begin in reverse). The nights before and after the new moon are critical for shooting stars because not only does it limit the illumination coming from the moon, but during the new phase, the moon won't even be in the night sky.

The moon travels through the sky during the day during the new moon phase and travels through the sky at night during the full moon phase. The closer the time of the new moon, the less time the moon will be in the sky at night.

This leads to the second way, we can avoid the moon until it rises in the night sky. Again, you can calculate the time until moonrise via TimeAndDate.com. However, you need to make sure that this matches the other conditions that you need to capture the stars successfully (i.e. time of total darkness, weather conditions, movement of the stars, etc.). We will talk about them below.

Killer #2: Light Pollution

You already know that you need to find the time of maximum darkness in order to achieve good results in photographing the stars. But you might be surprised at how dark it actually can be. You can't just drive out of town half an hour before shooting and expect it to be dark enough to actually photograph the beautiful night sky or the Milky Way. The city will not have a perfectly dark sky due to light pollution. Light pollution is light from urban lighting that illuminates the sky as well.

For the best shooting location, consult the Dark Site Finder. This is the best resource I've seen that shows places with minimal light pollution. It's basically Google maps with overlays of different colors that tell you how bad the light pollution will be in a particular place. The darker the color, the better (i.e. the less light pollution).

How dark does it have to be to get great starry skies? Really dark. Take a look at this photo:

This photo was taken in the blue area on the Dark Site Finder, which is the fifth darkest area out of 15. The light pollution you see in the bottom left of the picture was not from a metropolitan area, but from a small town shaded in green on the map. The town was at a distance of 15-20 kilometers.

I didn't see this light pollution with the naked eye, the sky seemed completely dark. But it's obvious in the picture. So make sure the sky is dark enough before shooting.

Killer #3: Star Movement

If you're not familiar with astrophotography and capturing the stars, you might think that you just need to open the shutter for a minute or two to get enough light into the camera. And you will achieve the correct exposure. But that won't help because the stars are moving. And they move much faster than you think. (Ok, I know this is because the earth is spinning)

If you are shooting the night sky with a long exposure, the stars will move while the shutter is open. The stars will turn out in the photo as small tracks. Often the stars are specially shot with a huge shutter speed in order to get large tracks for the entire frame, but this is a completely different story. What we are talking about here is getting clear stars in the night sky.

How long does the shutter have to be open to get clear stars? On all subjects except ultra-wide angle, you should not use a shutter speed longer than 15 seconds. Even on ultra-wide angles, you shouldn't use shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds. You can also use a special rule, this is the 500 rule, to determine the maximum possible shutter speed at which the stars will be clear. This rule states that the maximum shutter speed is calculated as follows: 500 must be divided by the focal length used, you get the maximum shutter speed (for example, with a 24mm lens - 500 / 24 or 20.8 seconds). Sometimes, instead of 500, the number 600 is used. But clearer stars will be obtained when using the number 500.

Because of this, for night sky photography, you should use your widest, fastest lens. In addition, you will have to increase the ISO sensitivity quite extreme.

Killer #4: Lack of foreground

A starry sky or milky way will provide a good backdrop for your shot. It looks like a good sunset. It's great and beautiful, but the starry sky alone won't be enough for a great shot. You also need a foreground element.

If you're just heading out to shoot the night sky without really knowing where you're going, you're probably in trouble. You will have an uninteresting foreground and therefore an uninteresting photo. The middle of the night is not the time to explore looking for angle and foreground. Remember that where you are going to shoot will be very dark. It will be total darkness, no moon, in a place where there is no light. Therefore, you will have difficulty choosing the foreground.

To fix this problem, you need to study the shooting area in advance. Sometimes this is physically possible if the place is not far away, but often it is not. The internet can often help. Use the Street View feature on Google Maps to prepare for shooting.

Killer #5: Unforeseen Conditions Blocking Stars

You probably already know that you can't go out on a cloudy night and expect to capture the stars successfully. You need clear skies. How to check it? There are many applications for viewing the weather, use the one you are used to.

But that is not all. I had many unsuccessful attempts to shoot the stars when there was not a cloud in the sky. They were destroyed by things like dust clouds, smoke and fog. These things can ruin everything.

For example, in the desert and a weak wind raises dust and fine sand into the atmosphere, which significantly blocks the stars. If you are in a coastal environment, sea fog can do the same. Wildfires hundreds of miles away can also affect your photography.

Therefore, be sure to carefully familiarize yourself with the conditions of your shooting area. Believe me, it's not fun to drive for many hours and then not even uncover the camera.

Killer #6: Boring Sky

Finally, you waited for a clear moonless night. If you go out on a shoot without knowing what kind of stars will be in the sky, you risk getting a dull little starry sky. If you have a strong enough foreground element, then it may not really matter. But if the night sky is your main subject, you need it to look really good.

For most people, this means including the Milky Way in your frame. This means the capture of a group of stars that passes through the sky. Your best bet is to capture the cluster of stars at the center of the Milky Way. But the Milky Way is not visible all year round. It is not visible at any time of the night during November-February. Starting in March, it will become visible just before sunrise. In June and until August it will be visible most of the night. Starting in September, it will be visible only after sunset. And no matter what hemisphere you live in.

To schedule the inclusion of the most interesting stars and constellations (and, again, usually the "Milky Way"), simply select one of the apps available for your phone. I use Sky Guide and I really like it, but there are others like Star Walk 2 and PhotoPills

Conclusion

A photograph of the starry sky involves a trip to the right place-location. Take steps to prepare and you will reap huge dividends. Shooting planning will allow you to spend less time and effort.

But do not wait and do not look for perfection, it does not happen. Plan and use the best conditions you can get, then just shoot. This alone can lead to stunning photos. Well, if you have gaps in long exposure photography, then you urgently need to take a step-by-step video course that will teach you from scratch how to take amazing long exposure photos even with an inexpensive camera. Click on the image below to view the course.

Take your ff shot taken with a specific lens. From it, it is quite easy to take a picture from a crop in Photoshop by simply cutting out the central part with a coefficient. 1.5, which will correspond to the image on the cropped matrix. Compare both shots at 100% scale. The length of the tracks will be exactly the same. Because it's the same star, the same pixel size and the same focal length. But EFR will be different.
So no one argues. But I'm not talking about looking at 100% crops, but I'm talking about the actual use of real lenses by people. Take two shots taken with the same lens but with 2 different sensors (FF and 1.5 crop), print 20x30 and look at them. A shot that was taken on a cropped carcass will have a 1.5 times smaller viewing angle and 1.5 times more noticeable star tracks. Other things being equal, of course. That is why, when taking a picture on a cropped camera with the same focal length, it is necessary shorten shutter speed by 1.5 times. And that's what I'm talking about in my post. Once again, I'm talking about that, other things being equal, and with an increase in the crop factor, shutter speed should be increased.

In addition, you do not take into account the factor that, as you rightly noted, along with the crop factor, the resolution of the matrix does not decrease. For example, all modern cropped Nikons are produced with 24MP matrices (d5300-5300, d7100, and so on). And what of this?

We have:
2 cameras, crop 1.5 and 1
1 lens, 15mm
Let's take two shots:
iso 800, 30 seconds.
We open 100% increase in both frames, each one is 24mp.
What will we see?
And we will see that the tracks are more noticeable on the crop.

I'm not a sheep to cut something out of my 24MP frames and turn them into 10.5MP, almost no one does this in reality. Everyone squeezes out of their matrices what they are capable of. And your hypothetical example about the cut out fragment is all right, only it has nothing to do with reality. So you will get to the point where you don’t need to buy, say, 135mm at all, but you can shoot everything at 10mm, then crop it, and there will be no difference. Because once at 10 mm the tracks are almost invisible at 30 seconds, then at 135 they will not be visible. And I don't care that if you cut a piece corresponding to 135mm from a 10mm frame, you get as much as some 0.3 mp. Print them on the wall 100x60 and enjoy.

- The basis for the fact that you get longer tracks on crop with the same parameters as on ff is step 2. Manufacturers, as a rule, try to keep the same resolution in cropped cameras as on ff.

Yes, what are you saying? Is it true? Did you just prove yourself wrong? Or it seemed to me, and you just advise people who use cropped cameras to reduce the size of the finished image to avoid blurring? Or maybe print them in a smaller size?
Wouldn't it be better to follow my advice, shorten the shutter speed and get shorter tracks?

And in order to fit the same number of pixels into a smaller matrix, their size has to be reduced. A smaller pixel is more blur.
So who's arguing? I told him about Foma, he told me about Yeryoma! More lubrication - well, we shorten the shutter speed and shoot, what's the problem?

Probably, the problem is that I, as a person who makes a picture, and not measuring pixels, always focuses on the appearance finished frame, and not for techno-fetishists who need some mythical numbers. Friend, my advice is for photographers. Those who receive a picture, ready-made, solid, 3x2 format, which will be printed on paper, and will not be looked at in special laboratories under a magnifying glass. And in my case, these tips are much more appropriate than the theory of a small pixel, which is relevant only when looking at a picture at 100% magnification.